Acrylic Model Paints VS Artist Acrylics

Mamath

So my boyfriend recently got into Warhammer Fantasy Thingammy with all the little unpainted miniatures. We're trying to work out what we need to assemble and paint all these figures and I'm hoping I can use my normal artist's arcylic paints instead of buying a whole lot of expensive model paints. As far as I can tell they're no different - the consistency in the bottle looks the same and they're both acrylic. I don't really want to buy some model paints to compare with either since for all I know different colours will have different properties in that way that paints sometimes do and I might not get a good idea from just one or two samples.

Anyone have experience with model painting and can shed some light?

Bronzdragon

So my boyfriend recently got into Warhammer Fantasy Thingammy with all the little unpainted miniatures. We're trying to work out what we need to assemble and paint all these figures and I'm hoping I can use my normal artist's arcylic paints instead of buying a whole lot of expensive model paints. As far as I can tell they're no different - the consistency in the bottle looks the same and they're both acrylic. I don't really want to buy some model paints to compare with either since for all I know different colours will have different properties in that way that paints sometimes do and I might not get a good idea from just one or two samples.

Anyone have experience with model painting and can shed some light?

What I know of painting models is that it's best if you can change the consistency of the paint. You often need to add water to make it easier to paint. what I'd do if I were you is see whether you can paint one model with the normal acrylics.

Mamath

I had a go at painting a model today and found that my artist's acrylics scratch off really easily and don't go on very smoothly (even after being watered down). Whether this is because of the paint, my inability to paint teeny tiny models or some other factor, I do not know.

MrRoboto

Even though you probably figured it out by now, Model acrylics are made to attach better to plastics and metal and the finish is more "plastic" than regular artists acrylics, and even though they won't scratch as easy as the artist ones, you still have to apply a clear coat to make it scratch resistant.

Kilarney

Vallejo for the win.

Bronzdragon

I had a go at painting a model today and found that my artist's acrylics scratch off really easily and don't go on very smoothly (even after being watered down). Whether this is because of the paint, my inability to paint teeny tiny models or some other factor, I do not know.

I guess I forgot to tell you about preporation. First off, the models usually come with a kind of coating on them. You're supposed to wash it off with warm soapy water (don't make it too hot for plastic!). I usually ignore that layer. Then apply a coat of white/black spray paint/normal paint. This makes the model look better, even if you forget to paint a small part.

However, from what I heard from you, normal Acrylics not suitable for models because of the metal/plastic, You could try roughing up the surface somehow...

MrRoboto

They sell self etching primer for plastics and for metal if you want to use more traditional mediums but the more coats of paint/primer(which by the way is somewhat thick) the more detail you loose. If you have access to one, an airbrush is the best tool for the job as it can apply really thin layers and get into every single crevice, that plus you can add metalflake, candy clear coats, tints, pearlescent effects, etc.

TheWhaleShark

You do have to make sure to prime your minis first. I generally try to avoid buying the GW paints these days, but I do have a can each of their black and white spray primers. I'd highly reccomend a spray acrylic primer, and apply a few thin coats in short bursts. Model paint is designed to stick to paint and primer.

As for other issues, brighter colors, especially red and yellow, tend to go on unevenly and show brush strokes. You'll need several coats of those colors to get it looking right.

Mamath

@ TheWhaleShark: Is there any particular reason you're avoiding GW paints? Just the cost?

Does anyone have paint recommendations, while I'm at it? Looks like I will be picking up a quality black spray primer at least...

Thanks for all your help, guys!

MrRoboto

@ TheWhaleShark: Is there any particular reason you're avoiding GW paints? Just the cost?

Does anyone have paint recommendations, while I'm at it? Looks like I will be picking up a quality black spray primer at least...

Thanks for all your help, guys!

If you are using light colors like yellow and red, I'd recommend white or gray primer, as its easier to cover a light color than the other way around, gray keeps everything neutral, white primer makes oranges, reds and yellows pop more.

TheWhaleShark

@ TheWhaleShark: Is there any particular reason you're avoiding GW paints? Just the cost?

Just the cost. They're good paints, but there's no reason they should be as expensive as they are.

Mamath

Thanks, I suspected as much.

The Vallejo paints look good but probably would be difficult to get in Australia. Guess I will shop around some.

Is it crazy to want to try priming with black and white? Putting white where the bright colours will be and black where I know metallics will be? Obviously you'd have to do this with a brush and a steady hand. I wonder what the results would be like.

Bronzdragon

Thanks, I suspected as much.

The Vallejo paints look good but probably would be difficult to get in Australia. Guess I will shop around some.

Is it crazy to want to try priming with black and white? Putting white where the bright colours will be and black where I know metallics will be? Obviously you'd have to do this with a brush and a steady hand. I wonder what the results would be like.

Spray the white first, then cover it with black paint.