If I may hijack the thread for a second, I need a new HD that isn't dying, and this one looks like the hotness. 640 GB, 7200 RPM, 32 MB cache, and a 5 year warranty for $75. Any objections or alternative suggestions?
If I may hijack the thread for a second, I need a new HD that isn't dying, andthis onelooks like the hotness. 640 GB, 7200 RPM, 32 MB cache, and a 5 year warranty for $75. Any objections or alternative suggestions?
If you want a Caviar Black, 750GB for $80 and 1TB for $100 are better deals in terms of price per GB. 1.5TB drives are currently cheaper per GB since they're at $110, but there isn't a 1.5TB Caviar Black.
Basically, you'll have to think about whether the 5-year warranty, and probably slightly improved performance and reliability are worth some extra cost. On the other hand, the Caviar Green series of drives offers lower power consumption and is relatively cheap.
The 5-year warranty is a biggie for me, considering that my last two hard drives have each failed within a year of their purchase. Also, because this will be the HD with the OS on it and not a storage HD, I care about the performance. I did look at those 1TB drives, but am opting for this one for the above reasons.
Also, because this will be the HD with the OS on it and not a storage HD, I care about the performance.
Why not a 10,000 RPM drive, then?
Because I still want to store things on it? And I don't want to pay twice as much money for a drive that only holds 75GB? I meant it's not *just* a storage HD.
Still, I think it would likely be a mistake to pass up the extra 110GB for only $5 on the 750GB drive. EDIT: You might want to look up some performance results, though.
So, I'm bumping this because I'm starting my first custom build, and I need some advice. I know what I want for my CPU (Core 2 Duo LGA 775), my video card (likely the GTX 260 mentioned above), I know how much RAM I want, all that good stuff. However, I have no idea what to go with for a motherboard. All I know is that I need something compatible with my CPU, hopefully around $100-$150 , and maybe future-proofed with SATA 6.0 and USB 3.0. Any suggestions from the wise gang of builders around here?
So, I'm bumping this because I'm starting my first custom build, and I need some advice. I know what I want for my CPU (Core 2 Duo LGA 775), my video card (likely the GTX 260 mentioned above), I know how much RAM I want, all that good stuff. However, I have no idea what to go with for a motherboard. All I know is that I need something compatible with my CPU, hopefully around $100-$150 , and maybe future-proofed with SATA 6.0 and USB 3.0. Any suggestions from the wise gang of builders around here?
Get something with all solid state capacitors. Other than that, just make sure it has enough slots for what you want to do with it.
Also, is SLI necessary/worthwhile? Just curious.
No. But if I won the lottery, I might get four video cards for lols.
Get something with all solid state capacitors. Other than that, just make sure it has enough slots for what you want to do with it.
Do they even make motherboards with electrolytic caps anymore?
Anyway, thanks. I think I found what I was looking for.
EDIT: Also, what type of RAM do I need for a motherboard with a memory standard of DDR2 1366+/1066? Does that just mean any DDR2 RAM with a number greater than 1366?
That's the one I just went with, great little board. Currently have it cruising away at a 1420MHz FSB and it's perfectly happy. I don't think it has SATA 6.0, but I'd never heard of that before just now.
And SLI is stupid, don't bother.
EDIT: With a LGA 775, the ram you need depends on the board you get. The one I've suggested is at home with DDR3 that can match the FSB. I went with DDR3 1600 capable, but I'm overclocking for shits and giggles. If you don't plan on that, DDR3 1333 would be great.
EDIT: Also, what type of RAM do I need for a motherboard with a memory standard of DDR2 1366+/1066? Does that just mean any DDR2 RAM with a number greater than 1366?
Tell me the motherboard, and I'll tell you which ram to get.
Currently have it cruising away at a 1420MHz FSB and it's perfectly happy.
Yes, but so are car modifications, building firearms from parts, and golf. My hobbies are what they are.
Car modifications are less pointless because of the scale of money involved. Instead of overclocking 50mhz, it's trivial to just buy a faster CPU. With a car, it costs a LOT more money to get more stock horsepower, usually.
Building guns from parts is not any more silly than putting together a computer from parts. Just don't overclock it.
As for golf, I would play if it was more convenient.
Not only is that unspecific enough to be useless, it's also an inferior choice compared to a Core i3/i5/i7.
my video card (likely the GTX 260 mentioned above),
I'd do more research w.r.t. cards like the HD 5750 and 5770 if I were you.
However, I have no idea what to go with for a motherboard. All I know is that I need something compatible with my CPU, hopefully around $100-$150 , and maybe future-proofed with SATA 6.0 and USB 3.0. Any suggestions from the wise gang of builders around here?
With regards to motherboards, unless you're overclocking you basically just want the cheapest board that supplies all of the features you require. Solid state capacitors are also recommended. If you want SATA 6Gbps and USB 3.0 and a P55 board, just look at these boards on Newegg: P55 boards with SATA3 and USB3 However, note the P55 chipset is "bottlenecked" in that it has only 16 lanes worth of PCIe 2.0 direct to the CPU, and some boards will need these lanes for SATA 6Gbps and USB 3.0 while reducing the graphics card to x8. This shouldn't matter unless you have a particularly high-end card, though. See here. If you want a dual-card configuration, you run into a little more trouble. The graphics cards take up all the PCIe 2.0 lanes with a x8/x8 configuration, while USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gbps are limited to single PCIe 1.0 lanes respectively (and hence 250MB/s): Illustrations here. If you want the full x16 PCIe 2.0 bandwidth, you can get a solution which uses a chip (the PLX PEX8613) to offer USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gbps by using 2 PCIe 1.0 lanes each (and hence 500MB/s for each). Alternatively, you can get a significantly cheaper board and an expansion card offering these technologies that will sit in a PCIe x4 slot and hence be taking up the same bandwidth. The only card like this I know of is the ASUS U3S6 and I can't find it on Newegg, though.
Also, is SLI necessary/worthwhile? Just curious.
Multi-card solutions are justified only by a need for high-end performance right now, for a large resolution (at least 1920x1200). Indeed, a multi-card combination of midrange cards will generally offer significantly better performance per unit price than high-end cards. However, I wouldn't really consider leaving SLI as an upgrade option, since you'll often be better off just buying a midrange card from a later generation.
Car modifications are less pointless because of the scale of money involved. Instead of overclocking 50mhz, it's trivial to just buy a faster CPU. With a car, it costs a LOT more money to get more stock horsepower, usually.
Core i5-750 (2.66GHz): $200. Core i7-940 (2.93GHz): $500. Core i7-975 (3.33GHz): $990. Those are still significant jumps in price, especially when you can get an entire computer for as much as the i7-975. Also, if you need more than 3.33GHz, you have no way to get it other than overclocking.
I'd do more research w.r.t. cards like the HD 5750 and 5770 if I were you.
I just got a 5770 and I'm most pleased with it's performance. Runs L4D2 at 1920X1080 at max settings and it only ran me $160. Very good value for money there.
Car modifications are less pointless because of the scale of money involved. Instead of overclocking 50mhz, it's trivial to just buy a faster CPU. With a car, it costs a LOT more money to get more stock horsepower, usually.
I didn't have a choice of CPU speed, I bought it from a friend. And what do you know about the costs of car modifications? Do you have any idea how much a turbocharger costs or what's involved with actually making one work?
Building guns from parts is not any more silly than putting together a computer from parts. Just don't overclock it.
It's almost always more expensive, and unlike computers where you end up with a considerably better one when you're done, you end up with pretty much the exact same thing.
I love how you think you can talk to the financial viability of things you have never done. Your arrogance astounds me at times.
Do you have any idea how much a turbocharger costs or what's involved with actually making one work?
A turbocharger costs hundreds of dollars, depending on which turbo and which car. It's also rather difficult to make it work, properly, in my estimation seeing as how many ricers try to install them and they just end up ruining their cars.
It's almost always more expensive, and unlike computers where you end up with a considerably better one when you're done, you end up with pretty much the exact same thing.
So, it's exactly the same as building a computer? You don't end up with a better computer when you build it yourself. In fact, you often end up with a worse one for more money. The Dell Optiplex 380 starts at the low low price of $324 which is less than some people want to spend on their video card. Max the specs out and it comes to under $900. Just try to build something similar on Newegg for that price. It also comes in an incredibly small form factor, with an air cooling system that is more efficient and more quiet than you can build with pretty much any case on Newegg. It's also perfectly standard parts. You can open the side panel easily, and everything is right there in your face. You would only know it's a Dell because of the logo on the case and the bootup.
It's also the same as building a Gundam model or ice tube clock. You could just buy something that is already put together, and it will probably be better than what you build yourself. You pay more for a kit because the added bonus isn't increase quality of final product. The added bonus is the experience of building something.
So, it's exactly the same as building a computer? You don't end up with a better computer when you build it yourself. In fact, you often end up with a worse one for more money. The Dell Optiplex 380 starts at the low low price of $324 which is less than some people want to spend on their video card. Max the specs out and it comes to under $900. Just try to build something similar on Newegg for that price. It also comes in an incredibly small form factor, with an air cooling system that is more efficient and more quiet than you can build with pretty much any case on Newegg. It's also perfectly standard parts. You can open the side panel easily, and everything is right there in your face. You would only know it's a Dell because of the logo on the case and the bootup.
But does it play viggy games?
I must say though, I'm now perplexed. Because as you say it's cheaper to buy the whole thing, but you build computers. So is it only for the thrill of putting it together yourself? Why is that OK, but overclocking my computer a mere 200MHz is stupid and no one should ever do that?
This thread has really hashed out why I've been bored with computers lately though. I only really like building them, and frankly I get a much greater kick working on my camaro for a few hours.
The Dell Optiplex 380 starts at the low low price of $324 which is less than some people want to spend on their video card. Max the specs out and it comes to under $900. Just try to build something similar on Newegg for that price.
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Swung by Seraphim whose foot-falls tinkled on the tufted floor.
Basically, you'll have to think about whether the 5-year warranty, and probably slightly improved performance and reliability are worth some extra cost. On the other hand, the Caviar Green series of drives offers lower power consumption and is relatively cheap.
EDIT: You might want to look up some performance results, though.
Also, is SLI necessary/worthwhile? Just curious.
Anyway, thanks. I think I found what I was looking for.
EDIT: Also, what type of RAM do I need for a motherboard with a memory standard of DDR2 1366+/1066? Does that just mean any DDR2 RAM with a number greater than 1366?
That's the one I just went with, great little board. Currently have it cruising away at a 1420MHz FSB and it's perfectly happy. I don't think it has SATA 6.0, but I'd never heard of that before just now.
And SLI is stupid, don't bother.
EDIT: With a LGA 775, the ram you need depends on the board you get. The one I've suggested is at home with DDR3 that can match the FSB. I went with DDR3 1600 capable, but I'm overclocking for shits and giggles. If you don't plan on that, DDR3 1333 would be great.
Building guns from parts is not any more silly than putting together a computer from parts. Just don't overclock it.
As for golf, I would play if it was more convenient.
If you want SATA 6Gbps and USB 3.0 and a P55 board, just look at these boards on Newegg:
P55 boards with SATA3 and USB3
However, note the P55 chipset is "bottlenecked" in that it has only 16 lanes worth of PCIe 2.0 direct to the CPU, and some boards will need these lanes for SATA 6Gbps and USB 3.0 while reducing the graphics card to x8. This shouldn't matter unless you have a particularly high-end card, though. See here. If you want a dual-card configuration, you run into a little more trouble. The graphics cards take up all the PCIe 2.0 lanes with a x8/x8 configuration, while USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gbps are limited to single PCIe 1.0 lanes respectively (and hence 250MB/s): Illustrations here. If you want the full x16 PCIe 2.0 bandwidth, you can get a solution which uses a chip (the PLX PEX8613) to offer USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gbps by using 2 PCIe 1.0 lanes each (and hence 500MB/s for each). Alternatively, you can get a significantly cheaper board and an expansion card offering these technologies that will sit in a PCIe x4 slot and hence be taking up the same bandwidth. The only card like this I know of is the ASUS U3S6 and I can't find it on Newegg, though. Multi-card solutions are justified only by a need for high-end performance right now, for a large resolution (at least 1920x1200). Indeed, a multi-card combination of midrange cards will generally offer significantly better performance per unit price than high-end cards. However, I wouldn't really consider leaving SLI as an upgrade option, since you'll often be better off just buying a midrange card from a later generation.
I love how you think you can talk to the financial viability of things you have never done. Your arrogance astounds me at times.
It's also the same as building a Gundam model or ice tube clock. You could just buy something that is already put together, and it will probably be better than what you build yourself. You pay more for a kit because the added bonus isn't increase quality of final product. The added bonus is the experience of building something.
I must say though, I'm now perplexed. Because as you say it's cheaper to buy the whole thing, but you build computers. So is it only for the thrill of putting it together yourself? Why is that OK, but overclocking my computer a mere 200MHz is stupid and no one should ever do that?
This thread has really hashed out why I've been bored with computers lately though. I only really like building them, and frankly I get a much greater kick working on my camaro for a few hours.
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=17330527
Newegg price - $535. Dell's price for the equivalent - $768.
Scott, you're wrong. I didn't even need to go for the absolute cheapest components; I only picked high quality ones.