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Time to build a machine...

edited November 2010 in Technology
But more importantly, help me educate myself. I'm going to endeavor to put together a PC for the first time, and then compare it to the 'big name' computers to see if I'm getting the best price. I'm trying to stay between 500-700 dollars max. I need to know how to pick a processor, a motherboard, appropriate ram, appropriate cd/dvd drives if mine will not be able to be cannibalized, video card, fans, power supply, etc. The machine should be able to run Photoshop flawlessly (no Mac jokes plz) and run current games well.
Now, I'm not completely ignorant, but I do have just enough knowledge to be a danger to myself. Here's what I'd like to cannibalize if possible:
Gateway 700 XL ATX case. 2 USB ports on the front, four on the rear.
DVD burner
CD burner
Hard drive
Here's what I've got so far:
First Attempt
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Comments

  • edited November 2010
    Newegg tells me that list is empty. I think you need a public link.
    Post edited by lackofcheese on
  • I'm going to make a thread called "To build a time machine..."
  • Proving more difficult than I thought to post a public link. I'll do it the long way:
    ASUS M4A785TD-V EVO AM3 AMD 785G HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard
    Item #: N82E16813131398
    OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ700MXSP 700W ATX12V V2.2 / EPS12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply compatible with core i7
    Item #: N82E16817341018
    G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL
    Item #: N82E16820231277
    AMD Phenom II X6 1055T Thuban 2.8GHz Socket AM3 125W Six-Core Desktop Processor HDT55TFBGRBOX
    Item #: N82E16819103851
    Subtotal: $433.97
    I still need to decide on a video card, and Windows 7, which will probably put it into the $600 territory.
  • 700W PSU is beyond ludicrous. Intel is still a much beter idea than AMD. Also, you don't have a case in there. I know you have that weird case for your current computer. Trust me, it will be very nightmarish to try to use that thing.
  • You also don't have any hard drives or anything. I highly doubt any of your current hard drives are SATA. Even if the motherboard has an old school IDE connector on it, and your old drive connects, it will be a severe bottleneck. You'll basically be waiting forever to boot, load any app, etc.
  • edited November 2010
    I was coming to this thread to say what Scott said. Part salvage is just not worth it. Also, IDE is being phased out. That motherboard doesn't even have IDE busses, which mean neither of your optical drives will likely be supported.
    Post edited by WindUpBird on
  • edited November 2010
    Part salvage is just not worth it.
    That's not entirely correct. There are plenty of salvageable parts. Mice, keyboards, monitors, speakers, sound cards, optical drives, etc. A lot of things can be taken from computer to computer no problem. However, if you're going to salvage anything else, you salvage it downwards to make extra computers, not upwards to your new one. Hard drives usually can be salvaged quite easily, but not if they are too old. My last desktop had SATA when SATA was brand new, so I was able to bring the drives over.

    Remember, if you are a nerd, your primary computer is probably the most important thing you own. You use it more than almost any other thing you own. It has a greater effect on your life than almost any other thing you own. It's worth it to spend an extra few hundreds to make sure it's rock solid. Skimping $50 now means that your computer will last two years less. All of my desktops ever have lasted at least 5 years before needing replacement. The only part that ever broke in my primary desktop was a power supply.
    Post edited by Apreche on
  • edited November 2010
    700W PSU is beyond ludicrous. Intel is still a much beter idea than AMD. Also, you don't have a case in there. I know you have that weird case for your current computer. Trust me, it will be very nightmarish to try to use that thing.
    Actually, the AMD hexcore is pretty close to the i5-760 overall, and at a similar price. When it can make good use of all six cores the 1055T will be faster, but I'd still take the i5-760 out of the two since that won't be the case most of the time.
    However, you should compare the costs of the two including the motherboards; if you're saving a significant amount on the AMD CPU you could go with that option.
    Post edited by lackofcheese on
  • That's not entirely correct. There are plenty of salvageable parts. Mice, keyboards, monitors, speakers, sound cards, optical drives, etc. A lot of things can be taken from computer to computer no problem. However, if you're going to salvage anything else, you salvage it downwards to make extra computers, not upwards to your new one. Hard drives usually can be salvaged quite easily, but not if they are too old. My last desktop had SATA when SATA was brand new, so I was able to bring the drives over.
    Well, yeah. I was speaking mainly in terms of cases in which the hardware itself is obsolete. Using an IDE drive, even an optical one, with a new motherboard is a fucking joke. I've tried it, and it does not work.
  • edited November 2010
    I fixed your link. I'd say AMD Is perfectly fine for a build at this budget. The GTX 460 is better than the GTX 465 I think.
    Post edited by Pegu on
  • I've tried it, and it does not work.
    Definitely.

    The thing is, you really only need one fast hard drive in a computer these days. If you have the money, it should definitely be a SSD. If not, then the fastest SATA your computer can take. The rest of the drives that don't have the OS/Applications are just going to store mp3s, documents, or whatever, so it doesn't matter how fast they are.
  • edited November 2010
    My desktop doesn't even have an optical drive. On the rare occasion where I need one, I have an external eSATA drive.
    Post edited by WindUpBird on
  • My desktop doesn't even have an optical drive. On the rare occasion where I need one, I have an external eSATA drive.
    I have an optical drive, but I haven't used it since installing the OS. I used to use it a lot for Linux ISOs, but now I use VirtualBox and USB sticks. It's still good to have one lying around for emergency situations. Also, I have a lot of old things still on CD/DVD, and I might randomly get the urge to use them. Moreso, to handbrake any DVDs I come across. DVDs will still be around a few more years.
  • If you need IDE support but don't want to constrain your motherboard, you could look at a couple of these. While you're at it, they do a xbox controler reciever for $12.
  • Definitely go with the GTX 460 over the GTX 465.
  • While you're at it, they do axbox controler reciever for $12.
    Is that an official Microsoft part, or is that a hacked 3rd party thing? It looks like the real deal. If so, I might pick one up. I've already got one, but an extra means I won't have to transfer it back and forth from desktop to HTPC.
  • edited November 2010
    It's third party. MS discontinued the real deal because they're dumb motherfuckers. Still worth it, IMO.
    Post edited by WindUpBird on
  • MS discontinued the real deal because they're dumb motherfuckers.
    WTF are you shitting me?
  • MS discontinued the real deal because they're dumb motherfuckers.
    WTF are you shitting me?
    Nope. Talked to my buddy who's a manager at GameStop and he says it's now discontinued and presumably unsupported, like hard drives for the last-gen 360.
  • between 500-700 dollars max
    Intel is still a much beter idea than AMD.
    AMD started out as a cheap source for Intel clones.
    They're not quite providing "clones" today, but they ARE a good $100 cheaper.

    I'm still using an AMD Athlon x64 6000 at 3.0 GHz, and it has plenty of power for L4D2 and MW2. And personally, I don't see the point of going past 2 cores, unless you're folding. I believe most games aren't even optimized past dual-core.
    But with what AMD is doing with the Bulldozer, that definitely appeals to me.

    If you have budget for a $1000 i7 CPU, you'd probably be better off downgrading to a dualcore AMD and spend what you've saved on a solid state drive.
  • edited November 2010
    Is that an official Microsoft part, or is that a hacked 3rd party thing?
    Looks like the more modern drivers locked out 3rd party adaptors so there's linked in the reviews.50%GW.

    Thinking about getting a PS3 controler for racing and platform games on the PC. The MotionInJoy driver will even emulate the XB3 controller.
    Even better, full keyboard remaping.
    Post edited by Omnutia on
  • edited November 2010
    you'd probably be better off downgrading to a dualcore AMD and spend what you've saved on a solid state drive.
    I'd split the difference and go for dual core i5 or i3. The i5 dual core has Turbo Boost, the i3 does not. Otherwise they're exactly the same as far as I can tell. The Turboboost seems to demand a $50 premium on newegg, not worth it IMO. I'd go for a this guy.

    Also, having tried a solid state drive I can decidedly say they're eh. They're nice, but the cost benefit is totally not there yet. A good magnetic drive is plenty.
    Post edited by George Patches on
  • Also, having tried a solid state drive I can decidedly say they're eh. They're nice, but the cost benefit is totally not there yet. A good magnetic drive is plenty.
    From what I can see, the only benefit for now is as a small system partition for the OS or in a portable device.

    For the money, you can just get double the number of standard drives and do a RAID-1, which greatly increases your reliability and also provides a modest performance boost in read operations.
  • SSD actually provides a huge boost when reading and writing to disk. The thing is, with modern systems that doesn't happen that often. That really only happens when you boot the system or startup new applications. As most people just use a few applications and leave them open all the time, you won't notice the SSD helping you all that much because you aren't using it. It's only when you have an application with heavy disk-usage will the SSD really make a more noticeable difference.

    Of course, in a laptop, you want it just for the fact that you don't have to worry about a magnetic drive having problem from shakes and jumps.
  • edited November 2010
    Damn it Adam, talking about this has given me a crazy computer upgrade itch. Probably gonna drop $300+ on a video card and RAM upgrade. I hate you.

    EDIT: And I did it. Yup, hate you.
    Post edited by George Patches on
  • edited November 2010
    I can't seem to find the build Scott made earlier in another thread.
    I also noticed I can probably use my old Creative Labs 5.1 surround card and speakers in a new system. My HD in my current computer probably won't work with a new MoBo, but I'm not worried about it. I can definitely use my current dual monitors, keyboard, mouse, etc.
    Let's assume we're starting with the processor mentioned above.
    Intel Core i3-540 Clarkdale 3.06GHz 4MB L3 Cache - $119.99
    If I use what appears to be a beefier Mobo like this 'un, it might leave me room to grow later on as well.
    ASUS P7H55-M PRO LGA 1156 Intel H55 HDMI Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - $94.99
    Now we stick in some ram, 4 gigs should be fine.
    Patriot G Series ‘Sector 5’ Edition 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model PGV34G1333ELK - $74.99
    I also threw in a cheap DVD/CD burner because I need one. It was only $20.
    Windows 7 is $99.
    Any comments and suggestions on the above would be appreciated.
    Now, here's where I'm getting stuck. I have an old Radeon 9800 Pro with a meager 128 mb on it. It looks like I can get a card with a gig on it to fit the PCI Express 2.0 slot on the Mobo for stupid cheap, but I wonder about the quality of the card. Any tips on picking one?
    What kind of hard drive should I get? Remember, I'm trying to keep costs down, do if a SSHD is going to be significantly more expensive than a regular one, I'm going cheaper.
    Also, I need advice on a case.
    Once I get all the parts together, I can take a look at what specs are of key import (I'll need tips there) and see if I need to cut some stuff down to keep the price low. As it stands, with the parts listed above I'm just over $400. Not a bad start assuming I haven't made any grievous errors.
    Keep in mind, we're trying to stay under $700.
    Post edited by GreatTeacherMacRoss on
  • Windows 7 is $99.
    Check to see if you can get an educator's discount.
  • Windows 7 is $99.
    Check to see if you can get an educator's discount.
    :slaps forehead: Didn't even think of that. I'll also be comparing the completed machine to a Dell or a Gateway just in case. Both of the biggies offer educator discounts.
  • edited November 2010
    The Antec Sonata III is quiet and comes with a 500w psu.
    Post edited by Pegu on
  • edited November 2010
    I also noticed I can probably use my old Creative Labs 5.1 surround card and speakers in a new system.
    Don't even try/bother. Actual sound cards are dead, onboard audio will do everything you need.
    Now, here's where I'm getting stuck. I have an old Radeon 9800 Pro with a meager 128 mb on it. It looks like I can get a card with a gig on it to fit the PCI Express 2.0 slot on the Mobo for stupid cheap, but I wonder about the quality of the card. Any tips on picking one?
    What screen res are you trying to drive with this card for gaming uses. I ask because I have a 1920x1080 monitor and my AMD 5770 hasn't been quite enough to drive all those pixels.
    What kind of hard drive should I get?
    Look for a Seagate 7200.12 in whatever size you desire. Make sure you get SATA (IDE drives seem to refuse to die). You can run RAID if you want, I'm not sure it's worth the effort at this level.
    Also, I need advice on a case.
    Any case, it really doesn't matter if you don't care massively about ventilation or noise.

    You have however forgotten a power supply. I recommend a Antec in the 430-500 watt range.

    EDIT:
    TheAntec Sonata IIIis quiet and comes with a 500w psu.
    This is a good suggestion for your case and PSU problem.
    Post edited by George Patches on
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