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PC Build- Help?

edited November 2008 in Technology
I'm looking to build a high-end gaming PC. Pretty much, I don't need anything but the desktop itself. I want at least 4GB of memory, a 1TB hard drive, a GeForce 8800 (or higher, if it's practical), and as far as power, processors, cases, and fans, I have really no idea on what I should get. Could I get any help on parts/tips to buy? Is this practical?

So far, I've got this hard drive, this video card, and I need help with everything else.

EDIT: The OS will most likely be Windows Vista.
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Comments

  • How much money are you willing to spend? For close to $1k both Scott and Andrew got decent rigs.
  • Probably around $1000, but as cheap as possible for what I want.
  • This is basically a matter of how fast do you want to spend. The same question applies to modding cars.
  • You shouldn't spend more than $1000. I got a Core2Duo and an 8800GT. I can run the Crysis demo at max settings at 1680x1050. Nowadays I would get a 9800GT, but other than that wouldn't change much.
  • Ok, so is this the Core2Duo that you are talking about? I saw several on Newegg, and just picked the one that had higher specs. I am also planning on getting a 22" Widescreen Dell Ultrasharp, but that doesn't have much to do with the computer itself. What should I look for in motherboards, aside from compatibility with all of the other parts?
  • edited November 2008
    Ok, so isthisthe Core2Duo that you are talking about? I saw several on Newegg, and just picked the one that had higher specs. I am also planning on getting a 22" Widescreen Dell Ultrasharp, but that doesn't have much to do with the computer itself. What should I look for in motherboards, aside from compatibility with all of the other parts?
    You don't want that CPU, you're paying the top dog tax if you get that one. This will give you 90% of the speed for only 60% the price. Or you can pay $25 more and have 95% of the speed.
    Post edited by George Patches on
  • edited November 2008


    You don't want that CPU, you're paying the top dog tax if you get that one.Thiswill give you 90% of the speed for only 60% the price. Or you can pay$25 moreand have 95% of the speed.
    This is correct. The 8400 or the 8500 are the way to go. Notice the trophies?

    As for choosing motherboards, it's all about the connectors. How many USB do you need? Do you ever in a million years plan to try SLi, crossfire, or something similar? Are you going to try any RAID? Do you want one or two built-in network cards? How many slots do you need? Do you want firewire? There are lots of things you have to decide for yourself.

    What I can tell you is that if I were buying a motherobard today, I would get one of these. The Intel P45 seems to be where it's at. The ASUS P5Q series and the Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS4P are looking pretty good to me. I have a Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L right now, and it's great.
    Post edited by Apreche on
  • Are you going to try any RAID?
    Kinda off topic, but I was under the assumption that motherboard based RAID wasn't so hot. Am I misinformed?

  • Kinda off topic, but I was under the assumption that motherboard based RAID wasn't so hot. Am I misinformed?
    It isn't so hot.

  • Kinda off topic, but I was under the assumption that motherboard based RAID wasn't so hot. Am I misinformed?
    It isn't so hot.
    Not so hot compared to server raid or not so hot compared to single hard drives?
  • Are you going to try any RAID?
    Kinda off topic, but I was under the assumption that motherboard based RAID wasn't so hot. Am I misinformed?
    Eh, it depends on what you wanna do. If you just wanna run a RAID 0 or 1, then it's fine and modern CPUs have the spare cycles to do any processing needed. if you wanna do a hardcore RAID 1 or 5 and have hotswapping or other fancy tricks, then yeah, it's not so hot. I ran a MB based RAID 0 for a while and after I got burned twice by the doubled chance of failure I said forget it. I also ran software based RAID 5 on a FreeNAS machine, which was fine as long as I didn't fuck with it. If I changed anything after creating it, it generally made my life a misery. I blame FreeNAS' implementation of RAID 5 for this, it seemed like beta quality at best. Now I just have a bunch of hard drives and do scheduled backups of important data. I do this mostly because Vista Business doesn't support software RAID 1.
  • edited November 2008
    Not so hot compared to server raid or not so hot compared to single hard drives?
    The PC I am planning has a PCI-express RAID controller (which is pricey). I planned on doing just a simple RAID 1, but I would rather not get a separate RAID controller if it isn't needed. I just figured a separate logic for hard drive stuff made sense.
    Post edited by djfooboo on
  • Most on-motherboard RAIDs are what are known as fake RAIDs. In a real hardware raid, there are chips that actually do all of the RAIDing. The operating system just sees one gigantic drive, and doesn't realize it's actually a RAID. In a software raid, your hardware doesn't give you any help at all. Everything is done in software.

    In a fake RAID, there are drivers for your OS which do most of the work. If you're running Windows, and you just want a simple RAID, a fake RAID will probably be just fine. You might not get the huge performance boost, but you'll get something. If you actually want something you can depend upon, get a real hardware RAID. Don't be fooled though. A lot of RAID cards out there are still fake RAID. You need to make sure you get a card with real hardware RAID, which can be relatively expensive.
  • This is purely for drive redundancy not necessarily performance. Good to know that even if I buy a standalone card, I need to make sure it isn't snake oil. Thanks!
  • This is purely for drive redundancy not necessarily performance. Good to know that even if I buy a standalone card, I need to make sure it isn't snake oil. Thanks!
    Remember that a RAID for drive redundancy only saves you from the problem of your drive crashing. It doesn't save you from the problem of "oops, I accidentally deleted a file" or "oops, I pushed save when I didn't mean to". Even with a mirrored RAID, you still need backups.
  • Hey, I just realized something. Check this out. You can get 32GB 2.5" SATA solid state drives for about $100. If I were building a PC today, I would get one of those and then get two normal magnetic drives. I would install the operating system on the SSD, put the program files on one of the magnetic drives, and put my media files on a third one. If I had a NAS for media files, I would still use the SSD for the operating system, but put the program files on a striped raid for performance. This isn't really necessary, but if you've got $100 to spare, why not?
  • Remember that a RAID for drive redundancy only saves you from the problem of your drive crashing. It doesn't save you from the problem of "oops, I accidentally deleted a file" or "oops, I pushed save when I didn't mean to"
    Also, remember that RAIDs put more stress on drives, and are generally higher maintenance. A parity raid will kill disks: you have to be ready and willing to buy replacements and swap them in quickly.
  • Remember that a RAID for drive redundancy only saves you from the problem of your drive crashing. It doesn't save you from the problem of "oops, I accidentally deleted a file" or "oops, I pushed save when I didn't mean to"
    Also, remember that RAIDs put more stress on drives, and are generally higher maintenance. A parity raid will kill disks: you have to be ready and willing to buy replacements and swap them in quickly.
    Yeah, to do RAID 5 right you need at least 4 drives. 3 in the array and 1 waiting in the wings.
  • Oh God, this is getting deep, maybe I will just backup more often to solve my fears.

    Sorry for the thread-jacking. Maybe we should have a dumb tech questions megathread?
  • edited November 2008
    Oh God, this is getting deep, maybe I will just backup more often to solve my fears.
    I just run a RAID 0 over 2 x 1TB drives for bulk media storage, and anything mission-critical (stored in /store/raid/safe/) gets backed up to a single 320GB IDE (/store/backup/safe/). RAID 5 would be nifty, but pointless unless you need to be able to perform data recreation on the fly.

    Long story short:
    1) Back your shit up across multiple drives (or better yet, multiple computers)
    2) RAID is nifty, but pretty pointless. JBOD is fast enough for just about anything you'll ever do to your hard drives.
    Post edited by Lusankya on
  • I just run a RAID 0 over 2 x 1TB drives for bulk media storage
    What?!? Why would you double your risk of data lose for storage? For speed I understand, but storage you get the same space from just using the two drives as two separate drives.
  • I just run a RAID 0 over 2 x 1TB drives for bulk media storage
    What?!? Why would you double your risk of data lose for storage? For speed I understand, but storage you get the same space from just using the two drives as two separate drives.
    All the data in the RAID is entirely replaceable with minimal effort. As well, I host a website with a bunch of tutorial videos, and I've noted that the boost in read speed dramatically improved performance when multiple clients were requesting multiple videos. I can load an entire video into RAM in a little over 20 seconds, compared with almost 40 before. Again, I have backups of everything remotely significant, so a failure is little more than a swap, reformat and a cp.

    Cliffs: RAID 5 would be nice, but I can't justify the expense of a new controller and an extra drive.
  • It's Black Friday over at Newegg.com
    $10 off Core 2 Duo 8400
    $15 off this excellent motherboard

    Also, lots of deals on RAM. Good day to buy a PC.
  • Check this build out. It's basically the same as the desktop I bought months ago, only faster, newer, better, and cheaper. It's got a 9800GT, whereas I have an 8800GT. It's got DDR 1066, where I'm pretty sure I have DDR800. The motherboard has a lot of fucking connectors: 8 USB on the back, 4 USB inside, 8 SATA, and a firewire. The total price is $705 with two hard drives, $645 with just the one. I went to Dell and configured the exact same machine at the bottom rung of the XPS line. It came out over $1250. I left the monitor out, since I would buy that from Dell either way.

    Remember, my computer, which is slower than this one, can run the infamous Crysis demo with every setting maxed out. This is $705 for an amazing gaming machine. The other gaming machines you see, with the SLi and such, are just stupid and excessive wastes of money. This can do it all, so there's no reason to pay for more.

    If it's $700 for a great gaming PC, the cost of a normal every-day PC must be insanely low. Well, it is, and it isn't. If I were making a machine for a non-gamer, I would probably get mostly the same stuff. I think the big difference would be that I would only get one hard drive. I wouldn't get the video card, and I would get a motherboard with a built-in video card instead. Also, I might cut back to 2x1GB of RAM instead of 2x2GB. I wouldn't want to cut back anything else because I would want a machine that is going to be top-of-the-line for years to come. If you cut back too much and have to upgrade after 2 years, you really haven't saved any money. Any desktop computer I buy should last five years minimum. So far, they all have.

    The economy is bad. People are supposedly cutting back on the holiday spending. I just want to remind people that as a result of that, prices are at an all-time low. If you are looking to buy a PC, now is the time. Just about everything at Newegg has discounts and rebates. The technology is advancing a lot slower than it has in the past. The Intel CPUs and chipsets are some of the most reliable there have ever been. Don't buy a computer if you weren't planning on it, or if you don't need it. But if a desktop has been in the cards, go now.
  • edited November 2008
    Thanks a lot, Scott. I'll definitely see how quickly I can purchase this build, and possibly save up money over the holidays and my birthday (which is shortly after) and get this thing running. One question though: Any reason for that specific case? While I could go on about other factors, it seems somewhat expensive, and It looks like I might be able to get a better looking, bigger (some people have complained about the size of the GeForce 9800), and better cooling case for equal or cheaper.
    Post edited by Loganator456 on
  • Check this build out.
    DAMNIT! I can't buy stuff on newegg because I don't live in america! I can't check it out either because I don't have an acount.

    Oh well, too bad.
  • Check this build out.
    DAMNIT! I can't buy stuff on newegg because I don't live in america! I can't check it out either because I don't have an acount.

    Oh well, too bad.
    Hey, and I'm the one who needs a new computer. Computer stores are so fucking expensive over here it's annoying.
  • edited November 2008
    Any reason for that specific case? While I could go on about other factors, it seems somewhat expensive, and It looks like I might be able to get a better looking, bigger (some people have complained about the size of the GeForce 9800), and better cooling case for equal or cheaper.
    FIrst of all, who cares what the case looks like? You want to get some sort of riced up goofball case with windows and lights? No thanks.

    Secondly, better cooling? Remember, overclocking is stupid. If you get this case and use the normal heat sink that comes with the CPU, you will have a computer that doesn't overheat, and is stupidly quiet. Why get more unnecessary fans that don't do anything besides use more electricity and make more noise?

    The GeForce 9800GT I picked out looks to be exactly the same in size and shape as the 8800GT I have now. Notice how it only takes up one slot, and isn't one of those stupid two-slot monstrosities. It will definitely fit just fine in that case.

    The are only six things that you should consider when looking at cases.
    1) Price, it's good to save money.
    2) Build quality. You don't want some flimsy cheap plastic shit with all sorts of sharp pointy edges.
    3) Connectors in the front. Got enough USBs up front?
    4) Will everything fit in there? If you're planning to put in a bunch of hard drives, you better have enough places to put all of them.
    5) Noise. The three biggest factors for noise in a PC are the PSU, the CPU, and the case. Bigger fans at lower rpm are better. Solid case builds also block a lot of the noise generated by the CPU fan, hard drives, and such.
    6) And the most important of all: The only time the case really matters is when you are actually building the PC. So the most important thing is that the case is easy to work with. Is it easy to get the PSU in there? Is it easy to get the motherboard in? Is it easy to mount the drives? Is it easy to keep unnecessary wiring out of the way? Is it easy to open and close the case? Does the case have enough connectors for things like the HDD LEDs and such.

    I would add looks to the list, because nobody wants a stupid beige box. However, once you've satisfied 1-6, you don't really have that many choices on looks. Even when you do, the choice is almost always obvious. So many cases these days are just ludicrous riced up LED-ridden monstrosities, that picking a tasteful case leaves you with few choices.

    Antec has always made tasteful cases that satisfy all the requirements. Even if you could save a few bucks, it's worth it because the quality of the case makes your PC building experience that much better. If I was going to get a different case besides the Antec Solo, which is the cheapest mid-tower they make, I would go for this one or this one. The first one of those is actually cheaper than it looks because it comes with a high quality PSU.
    Post edited by Apreche on
  • Check this build out
    Maybe I am not clicking the link correctly, but it does not bring up a wishlist.
  • edited November 2008
    I would add looks to the list, because nobody wants a stupid beige box. However, once you've satisfied 1-6, you don't really have that many choices on looks. Even when you do, the choice is almost always obvious. So many cases these days are just ludicrous riced up LED-ridden monstrosities, that picking a tasteful case leaves you with few choices.
    $27 case
    $25 short strand fiberglass filler
    2 cans of Black glossy (or matte) spray paint
    Couple of sandpaper sheets or Dremel like tool (if you have one)
    one of these (like $5):
    image

    and you are set!
    Post edited by MrRoboto on
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