So my car feels a little down on power lately. I'm thinking I may have a leak in the primary boost control circuit.
Do you have a pressure gauge for the turbo? Maybe just a tired spring on the b.o.v. Once I had pressure leak because the gasket on the original air intake (now pressurized) fell apart.
Um..Uh...Um...Mamoru Oshii's directorial stylings are...amazing. I especially like that part in Ghost in the Shell 2 where Richard Epcar and Crispan Freeman were quoting philosophy and the Major wasn't naked or even on screen. I think the parts where they moved really detracted from the overall feel of the film and raised my heart rate from 10 beats per second, a major flaw.
The vacuum lines are 10 years old, I do find them suspect.
Ah yes, you should check those on occasion. I don't find that I use braided steel very often, though, I find them somewhat ugly. However, If I could do all of the plumbing in my engine bay in brass piping, I think I would.
I need to buy myself a new pair of boots, the ones I have now are starting to show their age, I'm looking for something that looks menacing, but professional, no metal spikes and shit. Any suggestions?
I need to buy myself a new pair of boots, the ones I have now are starting to show their age, I'm looking for something that looks menacing, but professional, no metal spikes and shit. Any suggestions?
Magnum make some fine boots, but if you want the best bang for your buck, in my opinion, either go with Docs, Or Steel Blue brand High-top steel toe boots. They look like nice leather shoes if you cover the high top with long pants, and yet, they're sturdy and resistant to damn near everything.
Um..Uh...Um...Mamoru Oshii's directorial stylings are...amazing. I especially like that part in Ghost in the Shell 2 where Richard Epcar and Crispan Freeman were quoting philosophy and the Major wasn't nakedor even on screen. Ithink the parts where they moved really detracted from the overall feel of the film and raised my heart rate from 10 beats per second, a major flaw.
That's not boring at all in any capacity. That's actually quite exciting. Of course this is me talking so what the hell do I know.
Pete, please describe the beer you're brewing in great detail.
44 North is an American ginger maple wheat with a bit of a pepper kick. It's an homage to upstate New York - 44 degrees north latitude - and the fierce independence that such a solitary lifestyle breeds. The people who come out of such places have strong personalities that stand apart from other people. We can be difficult to peg down. Such is the case with this beer, an ostensibly German base with American yeast and a bit of Belgian and Asian inspiration.
The high proportion of wheat malt adds a lot of protein to the beer. This adds a nice spicy flavor, a solid body, and excellent head retention. The Vienna malt will add a rich toasty, biscuity flavor to the beer. The presence of the barley (Vienna is a barley malt) will also add additional enzyme content to the mash, ensuring excellent conversion. The barley also provides the vital husk; in addition to containing enzymes, the husk material forms a filter bed to ensure a complete sparge. A lack of husk can result in a stuck sparge, as the grains compact and become glued together by the residual sugars.
The most important part of doing all-grain brewing is ensuring a thorough crush. Uncrushed or coarsely crushed grains do not mash as efficiently as finely crushed grain. However, one must be careful not to crush too finely, as an excess of flour can clog the sparge manifold. Ideally, a good crush is about 10% flour. In this case, I ran the grains through my modified pasta machine twice, to ensure a proper crush. This helps with my overall brewhouse efficiency.
Albany's tap water is pretty good for brewing. Here's the relevant water analysis:
The bicarbonate content makes this water ideal for very malty pale ales, in the range of 7 - 12 SRM. This is the range of the English bitters and nearly every American pale ale. However, the high chloride:sulfate ratio will mute the hop character of the beer. In fact, the sulfate content is so low that hops would be hard to detect in the beer; for the uninformed, sulfates enhance the interaction of isomerized alpha-acids on the tongue, making the hop bitterness shine through. Water that is very high in sulfates will be nearly astringent.
Since I want some hop character to the beer, I added 1 gram of gypsum salts to the grain prior to mashing. This raised the sulfate content, allowing a little more hop character to shine through.
Doughing in was done at 163 F using 6 gallons of water. This gave a final mash temperature of 152 F, perfect for making a medium-bodied wheat beer. Generally, when you want to produce fermentable sugars, you shoot for a range of 147 - 152 F; the lower end of the range produces very dry beers, while the upper end produces beers with a good malt body. Higher-temperature mashing - 155 - 158 F - produces a large collection of unfermentable sugars as well, lowering the overall fermentability of your wort. I worlauffed for approximately 10 minutes. My initial runoff was ~4 gallons.
I did a double batch sparge, one at 4 gallons and one at 3 gallons, giving me a total pre-boil volume of ~11.25 gallons. The wort was boiled for one hour with 2 ounces of Tettnanger pellets; since the base malt was largely German, I decided to use a traditional German noble hop. In the last 5 minutes, I threw in 3 ounces of white peppercorns, and in the last 3 minutes, I added 3.5 ounces of crystallized ginger.
My immersion chiller worked like a charm, dropping the wort to pitching temperature in about 20 minutes. Post-boil, I had ~10.25 gallons of wort at 1.049 SG; I calculated my final brewhouse efficiency to be 74%, very close to my initial estimate of 75%.
After splitting the batch into two separate fermenters - a carboy and a bucket - I pitched 200 mL of fairly thick yeast slurry into each and waited. Now, 200 mL is more yeast than is required to ferment 5 gallons of 1.049 wort, but as I'm using wild yeast, I wanted to ensure a complete fermentation. Besides, too much yeast can't hurt, and this is a yeasty style of beer.
Currently, I'm on day 3 of fermentation. I slated this for 3 weeks, after which I will keg all 10 gallons and prime it with maple sugar. The maple sugar will impart a nice maple background, on which the ginger, pepper, and hops may dance.
I think it's funny how he does an extremely detailed description of something that is complicated and interesting and we make it into a low-brow sex joke.
I think it's funny how he does an extremely detailed description of something that is complicated and interesting and we make it into a low-brow sex joke.
You're implying that his mother isn't complex and interesting.
Comments
It speaks to me.
The krausen in my latest beer is clinging tenaciously. I suspect this will be a good fermentation.
The grain bill is as follows:
44.4% Wheat malt (Best Malz, Germany)
38.9% Vienna malt (Best Malz, Germany)
11.1% Dark Wheat malt (Best Malz, Germany)
5.6% CaraWheat malt (Malteries Franco-Belges, France)
The high proportion of wheat malt adds a lot of protein to the beer. This adds a nice spicy flavor, a solid body, and excellent head retention. The Vienna malt will add a rich toasty, biscuity flavor to the beer. The presence of the barley (Vienna is a barley malt) will also add additional enzyme content to the mash, ensuring excellent conversion. The barley also provides the vital husk; in addition to containing enzymes, the husk material forms a filter bed to ensure a complete sparge. A lack of husk can result in a stuck sparge, as the grains compact and become glued together by the residual sugars.
The most important part of doing all-grain brewing is ensuring a thorough crush. Uncrushed or coarsely crushed grains do not mash as efficiently as finely crushed grain. However, one must be careful not to crush too finely, as an excess of flour can clog the sparge manifold. Ideally, a good crush is about 10% flour. In this case, I ran the grains through my modified pasta machine twice, to ensure a proper crush. This helps with my overall brewhouse efficiency.
Albany's tap water is pretty good for brewing. Here's the relevant water analysis:
Ca: 16.9 ppm
Mg: 10.0 ppm
Na: 15.8 ppm
SO4: 11.9 ppm
Cl: 33.6 ppm
HCO3: 45.0 ppm
The bicarbonate content makes this water ideal for very malty pale ales, in the range of 7 - 12 SRM. This is the range of the English bitters and nearly every American pale ale. However, the high chloride:sulfate ratio will mute the hop character of the beer. In fact, the sulfate content is so low that hops would be hard to detect in the beer; for the uninformed, sulfates enhance the interaction of isomerized alpha-acids on the tongue, making the hop bitterness shine through. Water that is very high in sulfates will be nearly astringent.
Since I want some hop character to the beer, I added 1 gram of gypsum salts to the grain prior to mashing. This raised the sulfate content, allowing a little more hop character to shine through.
Doughing in was done at 163 F using 6 gallons of water. This gave a final mash temperature of 152 F, perfect for making a medium-bodied wheat beer. Generally, when you want to produce fermentable sugars, you shoot for a range of 147 - 152 F; the lower end of the range produces very dry beers, while the upper end produces beers with a good malt body. Higher-temperature mashing - 155 - 158 F - produces a large collection of unfermentable sugars as well, lowering the overall fermentability of your wort. I worlauffed for approximately 10 minutes. My initial runoff was ~4 gallons.
I did a double batch sparge, one at 4 gallons and one at 3 gallons, giving me a total pre-boil volume of ~11.25 gallons. The wort was boiled for one hour with 2 ounces of Tettnanger pellets; since the base malt was largely German, I decided to use a traditional German noble hop. In the last 5 minutes, I threw in 3 ounces of white peppercorns, and in the last 3 minutes, I added 3.5 ounces of crystallized ginger.
My immersion chiller worked like a charm, dropping the wort to pitching temperature in about 20 minutes. Post-boil, I had ~10.25 gallons of wort at 1.049 SG; I calculated my final brewhouse efficiency to be 74%, very close to my initial estimate of 75%.
After splitting the batch into two separate fermenters - a carboy and a bucket - I pitched 200 mL of fairly thick yeast slurry into each and waited. Now, 200 mL is more yeast than is required to ferment 5 gallons of 1.049 wort, but as I'm using wild yeast, I wanted to ensure a complete fermentation. Besides, too much yeast can't hurt, and this is a yeasty style of beer.
Currently, I'm on day 3 of fermentation. I slated this for 3 weeks, after which I will keg all 10 gallons and prime it with maple sugar. The maple sugar will impart a nice maple background, on which the ginger, pepper, and hops may dance.
A masterpiece of brewing. 48/50.
BOBA FETT?!?!