This forum is in permanent archive mode. Our new active community can be found here.

Building A Computer

1101113151664

Comments

  • Yeah, the GPU seems to be another significant step up, which definitely matters for laptops.
  • edited April 2012
    I'll probably buy the new laptop after the announcement.
    Well, you will have to wait for laptops to come out with new models, like Lenovo X221 or X330 or whatever.
    Given that the hardware is basically entirely compatible, I expect that will happen pretty much instantaneously.
    Granted, specific models like the X221 could take longer because Lenovo may want to update chipsets and such.
    Post edited by lackofcheese on
  • Is there a better GPU than a 6950 at the $250 price point?
  • Is there a better GPU than a 6950 at the $250 price point?
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-4.html
  • edited April 2012
    In a strange turn of events I bought a sound card, an Asus Xonar DX, to replace my USB one and give virtual surround a try as I'm not going to be able to get a proper surround setup any time soon.

    I wouldn't recommend paying the RRP but the second hand one I got for the price of the entry level DS is pretty fantastic. Virtual Surround is going to take some work to get tweaked properly but is promising.

    Music sounds very clear, especially when there's a whole bunch going on (Though you will need at least 192KBs MP3s) and generally better all round using my Senn RS-120s and bookshelf speakers.

    Downside: What isn't 192/320KBs MP3 or better is now pretty damn obvious.
    Post edited by Omnutia on
  • Okay, I'm not building a computer but rather upgrading my existing one. I need more RAM. Photoshop is awful to me and eats all my memory. It's not too bad in normal operation, but when I'm trying to stream what I'm doing I get thrashing, serious slowdown, and memory management crashes. So math that shit, it's time to stick more chips in my box.

    Problem is, I haven't done my own computer work since I was like 15, and I have no idea what computer hardware looks like these day. I got an Intel i7-2600k and 4 gigs of RAM installed. What do I stuff in there, and where do I get it for cheap?
  • edited May 2012
    What's your CPU clock speed?
    Post edited by WindUpBird on
  • Durr. 3.40GHz
  • edited May 2012
    I'm surprised that Photoshop is eating all of your memory with 4GB installed. You should go through your processes, startup, and installed programs, and make sure nothing else is devouring that memory.

    In the meantime, you should probably get DDR3 at either 1333 or 1600. There's not much of a price difference for 1600, but you likely won't notice any improvements due to RAM speed or latency, anyway. Just make sure you go with a well known brand (G.Skill, Corsair, Patriot, Kingston, etc), and that all your installed sticks are at the same speed and latency. Being the same make and model of stick can sometimes also be important, so if you're running 12GB of RAM and your computer is throwing a fit, uninstall the original 4GB and buy another set of eight. Be sure to seat them in the correct sockets, too.
    Post edited by WindUpBird on
  • edited May 2012
    I've checked. CS5 just manages to routinely pull like 3 gigs. It's pretty nuts. Thanks though.
    Post edited by open_sketchbook on
  • edited May 2012
    Try to match the clock speed of the original RAM if you plan on using it. Also, make sure to install your DIMMs (ram chips) in powers of two (2 or 4 chips, not 3). Oh, and this is unlikely given you have some and are adding more, but if you're only using 2 DIMMs, don't install them directly beside eachother.
    Post edited by Pegu on
  • edited May 2012
    Also, since it sounds like you bought a pre-built machine, your OEM RAM probably won't have labels for the clock speed and latency. Speccy is a decent program that will tell you your RAM details so you can match it.

    Really though, RAM is dirt-cheap these days. It used to be really expensive, but you can get 16GB of ultra-low latency DDR3 1600 for $100 or less from Newegg now. You're probably better off just buying an entirely new set if you have any doubts.
    Post edited by WindUpBird on
  • edited May 2012
    Well, I'm building a new computer pretty much this week; I've already done the research but I thought I'd do a quick sanity check with you guys. I can't get parts from Newegg so I didn't do a wishlist or whatever it is most of you in the U.S. do, but I do have a Google spreadsheet. The prices should be pretty much the same as yours over in the U.S.

    The spreadsheet is here, and these are the specs:
    Intel Core i5-3570K
    PowerColor Radeon HD 7850 2GB
    Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H
    Silverstone 750W ST75F-P
    G.Skill 8GB Ripjaws-X 1600MHz
    Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB
    Lite-On 24X SATA DVD-RW
    Microsoft OEM Win7 Home Premium 64-bit
    Cooler Master HAF 912 Advanced
    Post edited by lackofcheese on
  • edited May 2012
    Looks pretty good. Just beware that green drives sacrifice speed for low power usage and low noise.
    Post edited by Pegu on
  • Yes, I know that. I actually have an Intel 240GB SSD that I may or may not put into this desktop, though I originally bought it for a laptop. Even if I don't put that one in, I'll probably just get another SSD for the desktop.
  • edited May 2012
    I also found an HD 7950 for $400; the performance advantage is a decent one, and $400 is cheap for an HD 7950 here in Australia, but even then it doesn't seem worthwhile. Nvidia's new generation seems out of the question, as the cheapest I can see them around here is $480 - I guess this is mostly a reflection of how limited the availability is.

    Based on the reviews I've seen, at 1920x1200 (which is my native resolution) once you crank the settings up on some games even the 7850 isn't really coasting so extra performance wouldn't be wasted, but the evidence suggests that if I really wanted that performance a dual-card setup would actually be much more cost-efficient anyway (and that option will remain open).
    Post edited by lackofcheese on
  • edited May 2012
    Regarding RAM, I'm thinking of going all-out and getting these. I'm pretty sure they'll work with my i7-2600k but I wanna doublecheck before I pay for anything.
    Post edited by open_sketchbook on
  • Regarding RAM, I'm thinking of going all-out and getting these. Will they work?
    What motherboard do you have?
  • Again, a Intel i7-2600k 3.40GHz.
  • Only get fast RAM if you will indeed clock it to its maximum speed. ;^)
  • Again, a Intel i7-2600k 3.40GHz.
    That's a CPU, not a motherboard.
  • A herpa-derp. Check out the not-tech guy over here. Its a ASUSTeK Computer INC. P8P67 PRO (LGA1155)
  • edited May 2012
    A herpa-derp. Check out the not-tech guy over here. Its a ASUSTeK Computer INC. P8P67 PRO (LGA1155)
    Get this instead.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231315

    Your motherboard apparently takes PC3 12800, so that is what you should get.
    Post edited by Apreche on
  • Cool, thanks.
  • Cool, thanks.
    That's according to the thingy at crucial.com. Check the motherboard docs to make sure. You want the highest PC#### that the motherboard supports.
  • edited May 2012
    On the other hand, the official CPU spec says it only supports up to DDR3-1333 (PC3-10600).

    Of course, everything should pretty much just work with faster RAM (though sometimes it will simply clock it at the slower speed), but the performance increase is marginal anyway. My rule of thumb is that anything past a difference of $10 or so isn't justified for faster RAM.
    Post edited by lackofcheese on
  • Faster RAM does nothing if you're not clocked to use it. It has zero effect (other than a slightly increased tolerance for heat) if you don't use it.
  • I did the WEI test and I found that my lowest score was actually the CPU at 7.6, which is pretty surprising as it's a Core i5-3570K. However, after looking it up on the Internet I found out that the maximum is 7.9, so I guess that's fair enough.
  • edited May 2012
    Faster RAM does nothing if you're not clocked to use it. It has zero effect (other than a slightly increased tolerance for heat) if you don't use it.
    From what I know, most Sandy Bridge motherboards and CPUs do support DDR3 as fast as 2133MHz; it's just that the official figure is 1333MHz.

    However, the more important point is that even when the faster RAM speed is actually used, it still makes for the tiniest of performance gains.

    See here for benchmarks and information.
    Post edited by lackofcheese on
Sign In or Register to comment.