I just checked. It does in fact work with the old ram. So I stuck the new ram back in, and the computer turns on, goes dark for half a second after a few seconds, boots again, but with nothing working, and stays that way.
I would like to officially blame Scott, who recommended I order these chips :P
I've stuck the old chips in an I'm back on my computer instead of my iphone. Hooray for keyboards. I'm going to ship the chips back and get something else. Anyone who isn't Scott have any recommendations?
I would like to officially blame Scott, who recommended I order these chips :P
I've stuck the old chips in an I'm back on my computer instead of my iphone. Hooray for keyboards. I'm going to ship the chips back and get something else. Anyone who isn't Scott have any recommendations?
Somewhat unfair - you should have double-checked compatibility before you bought the parts, independent of anything Scott said. I trust the guy's opinion on most computing topics(not that I'll always follow it, but I trust it) but that doesn't mean I'm not going to double-check before I lay down my hard earned.
Not to say it doesn't suck, but still, ease up on the guy.
The problem is I'm really, really out of it when it comes to computers; again, I haven't done any of my own work on my PC since I was fifteen, about the time when I decided that art was more fun than tech. I didn't have the competence to double-check, basically, and I got some reassuring noises from everyone else so I went with it.
Lesson of the day : Trust no one, and trust yourself less.
It's possible that the RAM is defective, or that the motherboard needs a change in settings or a firmware update to handle it.
However, if you want something that's easily going to work out of the box, 1333MHz is a safer bet as that's what Intel's specifications say for the CPU.
Those are teh chips suggested by crucial.com for your motherboard.
Yeah... Crucial.com is usually pretty good with their recommendations, but they sometimes do make mistakes -- as happened to me once (I mentioned it earlier). They're very good with their return policies though, as I also mentioned.
Call up who you bought your RAM from and explain the situation while you get your return info. They'll probably be able to double-check their own support DB and see "Oh yeah, the November 2011 version of the FooTech Motherboard actually has slightly different timings than the October 2011 version, woops! Sorry we went you October-compatible RAM instead of November RAM."
lackofcheese: Even if the website says it's compatible, as I said, sometimes there are revisions and stuff that slip through the cracks for some reason. Still, it's also likely that the RAM was just bad.
Which motherboard/processor are we talking about? Isn't the memory controller on the new intel stuff on the processor now? Would you need to also look at compatibility with that?
open_sketchbook, if you were doing it wrong before, you should try the new sticks individually again. Even if some of it is defective, it's not very likely for all four sticks to be defective.
However, my bet is that the problem is due to the CPU's preference for 1333MHz RAM; chances are something ends up running at a speed / timings it doesn't want to be running at due to poorly configured profiles. It's likely something you could fix in the BIOS.
Again, I'm going to be looking at any updates or whatever before I return them, though I'm already kinda lost in acronyms here :P
Well, a BIOS flash is likely to fix a lot of these kinds of niggling problems. However, keep in mind that you have to do it correctly, or you could break your motherboard; BIOS flashing (and any kind of firmware update in general) is dangerous.
You go to your motherboard manufacturer's website and see if there's one available for your motherboard. Then you follow their instructions TO THE FUCKING LETTER.
You go to your motherboard manufacturer's website and see if there's one available for your motherboard. Then you follow their instructions TO THE FUCKING LETTER.
Not such a huge pain to flash BIOSs these days. The motherboard I have has a backup bios as well as a built in utility to flash the BIOS ROM from a USB drive at bootup.
Would some form for the Geforce 210 be sufficient for some decent pc gaming? My desktop is getting pretty old and the videocard can't really do much anymore. I just need something cheap to tide me over until I eventually build/buy a new desktop in a year or so.
I don't have the cash at the moment to buy another desktop, and since I don't NEED it I probably couldn't justify it anyway. I've got a 2.1 Ghz AMd 64 dual-core, 2 gigs of RAM, and a Geforce 7300 le.
Okay, so I'd assume you're pretty limited in terms of power and it doesn't seem like you have a 6-pin power connector available. If you do, please say so as it gives you more of a choice.
Based on what you've said so far, though, I'd say you have to go with a sub-75W card. Your main choices there are the HD 7750 from the most recent generation, or the older, much slower, and cheaper HD 6670.
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I've stuck the old chips in an I'm back on my computer instead of my iphone. Hooray for keyboards. I'm going to ship the chips back and get something else. Anyone who isn't Scott have any recommendations?
Not to say it doesn't suck, but still, ease up on the guy.
The problem is I'm really, really out of it when it comes to computers; again, I haven't done any of my own work on my PC since I was fifteen, about the time when I decided that art was more fun than tech. I didn't have the competence to double-check, basically, and I got some reassuring noises from everyone else so I went with it.
Lesson of the day : Trust no one, and trust yourself less.
http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=335
It's possible that the RAM is defective, or that the motherboard needs a change in settings or a firmware update to handle it.
However, if you want something that's easily going to work out of the box, 1333MHz is a safer bet as that's what Intel's specifications say for the CPU.
Right, I'm going to dig into this for a while and see what's up.
Call up who you bought your RAM from and explain the situation while you get your return info. They'll probably be able to double-check their own support DB and see "Oh yeah, the November 2011 version of the FooTech Motherboard actually has slightly different timings than the October 2011 version, woops! Sorry we went you October-compatible RAM instead of November RAM."
lackofcheese: Even if the website says it's compatible, as I said, sometimes there are revisions and stuff that slip through the cracks for some reason. Still, it's also likely that the RAM was just bad.
However, my bet is that the problem is due to the CPU's preference for 1333MHz RAM; chances are something ends up running at a speed / timings it doesn't want to be running at due to poorly configured profiles. It's likely something you could fix in the BIOS.
As for how to do it, look that up in the manual for your motherboard.
EDIT: It seems like you've at least got PCI Express; that helps.
Based on what you've said so far, though, I'd say you have to go with a sub-75W card. Your main choices there are the HD 7750 from the most recent generation, or the older, much slower, and cheaper HD 6670.