And isn't a z87 mobo required for use of a 4th generation CPU? Or will a 7 series chipset do the trick? Also, I don't want to ride the complete tail end of the tech trail. I want some staying power.
Even with tiny motherboard speaker plugged in, no beep codes...Not quite sure on what to do at the moment. I'm probably gonna refund the mobo and get a better one, but I need to also know if I need a CPU replacement.
Even with tiny motherboard speaker plugged in, no beep codes...Not quite sure on what to do at the moment. I'm probably gonna refund the mobo and get a better one, but I need to also know if I need a CPU replacement.
Return the motherboard, 90% chance that it was the only thing that failed (I reduced the percentage by 9% because G.Skill RAM can either be fine or not fine and don't often come with a lifetime warranty).
Yeah, even though it's your second failed motherboard, it still seems fairly likely to be the motherboard here.
Faulty CPUs are quite rare, and I think that in principle the motherboard ought to be able to generate beep codes without a CPU (though this isn't guaranteed).
Other distinct possibilities include a faulty PSU or a short-circuit somewhere, and of course it's also possible you're doing something wrong, although I can't think of anything obvious for the latter.
Also test this bare-bone system outside of your case on top of your cardboard motherboard box or something plastic to rule out any possible short circuits with mounting screws (and to allow the motherboard to sit in its slightly flexed states (some motherboards are very sensitive to be super straightened out by screwing on mounting / hold off screws too tightly).
... That would make me really grumpy. I wasn't aware such things existed. The instructions for my Mobo don't mention having to remove such a thing. I guess I'll check. This was something that came on the Mobo that had to be removed?
No, I left a case standoff (those things that you put in the case that the motherboard screws go into) screwed in where there wasn't supposed to be one, and it was touching the back of the motherboard and causing a short.
Oh. Yeah, all my standoffs are in the right spot and being used. 6 holes, 6 standoffs. I'm very sure of that.
You can have them in the right spots and still cause issues. almost 3 or 4 builds back I tightened the screws too much, flattening the motherboard out, this caused enough issues that the machine wouldn't post. Yet when I rebuilt it outside of the case and let it sit naturally on the motherboard box, it would boot and post (I was lucky that the motherboard came with a small LCD display which indicated what was going on during the boot process so I didn't even need to attach it to the monitor to realise my error).
So the storage drive on my 6 year old machine developed a click a few days ago. A new hard drive was ordered imminently and I haven't used the machine since. The new hard drive arrived but I found that Alienware only used a 2 port serial at a data cable.
Sigh.
Now I have to go out and buy one. Such a pain in the ass. Not the installation, the having to go to a brick and mortar place. #firstworldproblems
Edit: good science. I bought this system with money my father gave me for the purpose ( long story ) so I didn't set anything up inside and this is the first time I've had to meddle with the HDDs. It's a fucking nightmare. Cabling is not conducive to expansion in the name of tight aesthetics and the currently existing drives are secured I don't know how but I can't get the fuckers out. This is way more than I was hoping for.
So, new mobo didn't work. Still no video. Think it might be the CPU. Only real option at this point. Different mobos and different graphics cards didn't give me video. RAM light doesn't go off, so CPU seems the best bet? Is it worth it to go through AMD's warranty process? The Newegg one expired...
Welp. Looks like I got rid of the box that was the only location of the CPU's serial number. I may be up shit creek without a paddle.
The serial number is on the die itself, just look at the top of the CPU after you remove your heat sink.
Which RAM light didn't go off? Is it supposed to go off or be dark or be a specific colour?
e.g. During my posting processor, on the motherboard, there is an LED each for the CPU, RAM and motherboard, if it passes the led will glow green, if there is an error it goes red or doesn't light up.
There's a light specifically for the RAM. Lights up if there are memory problems. No light.
And the serial number is covered by the thermal paste, if it's actually on the CPU. I don't feel like scraping off the thermal paste is a good way to convince them that I should get a replacement.
There's a light specifically for the RAM. Lights up if there are memory problems. No light.
And the serial number is covered by the thermal paste, if it's actually on the CPU. I don't feel like scraping off the thermal paste is a good way to convince them that I should get a replacement.
Sure you can, it's the only way to swap between heat sinks, it does no damage to the CPU die.
Just clean off the thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs.
GTX 770 was also in the sweet spot of price/performance.
First of all, what's wrong with your current PC?
Also, your RAM is out of stock. You should definitely be able to find a cheaper motherboard. And you definitely don't need an 860W PSU. Someone who cares so much about the heating/electric bill should be getting a more efficient lower power PSU.
The only moving part in the entire build is the CPU cooler fan. I was contemplating a passive cooling build to eliminate all moving parts (and thus noise), but passive coolers for AMD chips are enormous. I wanted the compact size more than deadly silence, and the CPU fan is inaudible from a few feet away.
Why would you get two video cards? I have a 680. It still plays every game at full frames on max settings. With Fraps recording. What game are you possibly playing? Are you learning Maya? You are the most frugal, but when it comes to PC you just pay all the money for no other reason than e-peen. Wow, such compensation.
Pete, did the default cooler not fit in that case?
I grabbed an OEM version of the processor for $90, so stock cooler wasn't an option. But I checked the dimensions on the stock unit, and it would not have fit in the case the way I have it configured. The cooler I got is 29mm tall in total, and I have maybe 5 mm between it and the bottom of my SSD.
The primary issue is the positioning of the hard drive mounting bracket - it very very slightly overlaps the edge of an 80 mm fan (the frame around the actual fan, there's still a free air column above the heatsink), so the top of the cooler might run into your drive.
You could hypothetically run a build without an internal disk at all and get away with a taller cooler. I contemplated just using 64 GB thumb drives permanently attached to the USB ports to improve airflow in the case. May yet fuck around with that one day.
I'm building something to last for a long time. Since I'm not sure when my budget will afford a computer again once the Child(ern) appear. Plus I do play some FPS games like Planetside2 competitively and it's difficult to max that game out.
My primary hobby is PC gaming, is it surprising that I'm willing to spend money on my primary Hobby? This is my sports car for my "midlife" crisis.
Every day, I go home and hug my HTPC. I similarly built it in 2009, but it was on the budget end of things, only setting me back ~$900. 2015 here we come!
It cries trying to run anything with too much 3D graphics (Example: Team Fortress 2 fine, Left 4 Dead 2 not fine), although I did manage to play The Stanley Parable on it w/ no issue. I do regularly render video, but my segments are never over 2 min so it's more than serviceable. See you in a year, PC building thread.
Download Planetside 2 and tell me how it runs at Ultra settings :-p
Again, I wouldn't be upgrading my computer if my wife didn't need one but since she does, I feel it's best if I improve upon my formula. The increased costs mainly come from the fact that the next set up from my current card is on the low end of high end and I'm going Intel instead of AMD.
My rig cost just over $400 (not including the external DVD drive that I'm buying to go with it so that I can box up our current DVD player). THAT is a budget build. Would've been cheaper if I'd been willing to go microATX.
I'm thinking about trying out PS2. I won't be running it on Ultra, but it should run at 1080p without issue.
Comments
Faulty CPUs are quite rare, and I think that in principle the motherboard ought to be able to generate beep codes without a CPU (though this isn't guaranteed).
Other distinct possibilities include a faulty PSU or a short-circuit somewhere, and of course it's also possible you're doing something wrong, although I can't think of anything obvious for the latter.
Did you do what sK0pe said earlier, i.e.
That would make me really grumpy. I wasn't aware such things existed. The instructions for my Mobo don't mention having to remove such a thing. I guess I'll check.
This was something that came on the Mobo that had to be removed?
Sigh.
Now I have to go out and buy one. Such a pain in the ass. Not the installation, the having to go to a brick and mortar place. #firstworldproblems
Edit: good science. I bought this system with money my father gave me for the purpose ( long story ) so I didn't set anything up inside and this is the first time I've had to meddle with the HDDs. It's a fucking nightmare. Cabling is not conducive to expansion in the name of tight aesthetics and the currently existing drives are secured I don't know how but I can't get the fuckers out. This is way more than I was hoping for.
Alienware assholes.
Is it worth it to go through AMD's warranty process? The Newegg one expired...
Which RAM light didn't go off? Is it supposed to go off or be dark or be a specific colour?
e.g. During my posting processor, on the motherboard, there is an LED each for the CPU, RAM and motherboard, if it passes the led will glow green, if there is an error it goes red or doesn't light up.
And the serial number is covered by the thermal paste, if it's actually on the CPU. I don't feel like scraping off the thermal paste is a good way to convince them that I should get a replacement.
Just clean off the thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs.
With with i5 over i7 due to price/performance ratio and figured I'd try an Intel chip.
GTX 770 was also in the sweet spot of price/performance.
Also, your RAM is out of stock. You should definitely be able to find a cheaper motherboard. And you definitely don't need an 860W PSU. Someone who cares so much about the heating/electric bill should be getting a more efficient lower power PSU.
Memory went out of stock between making the list and making it public. I'll probably get the 10 dollar cheaper model that is not low profile.
PSU, is a bit of over kill but might end up Running dual video cards in the future so I figured I'd slightly over compensate.
Motherboard is an area I am thinking about the most. Since it has the most variation of price to other junk.
http://www.mini-box.com/M350-universal-mini-itx-enclosure
I grabbed the case with a 120W power bundle for ~$90. You pay a premium to get this small.
The guts (not the prices I paid, but it's a convenient list):
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3vRra
The hard part was fitting a cooler into that tiny-ass case. Settled on this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004947S3U/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The only moving part in the entire build is the CPU cooler fan. I was contemplating a passive cooling build to eliminate all moving parts (and thus noise), but passive coolers for AMD chips are enormous. I wanted the compact size more than deadly silence, and the CPU fan is inaudible from a few feet away.
Pete, did the default cooler not fit in that case?
The primary issue is the positioning of the hard drive mounting bracket - it very very slightly overlaps the edge of an 80 mm fan (the frame around the actual fan, there's still a free air column above the heatsink), so the top of the cooler might run into your drive.
You could hypothetically run a build without an internal disk at all and get away with a taller cooler. I contemplated just using 64 GB thumb drives permanently attached to the USB ports to improve airflow in the case. May yet fuck around with that one day.
My primary hobby is PC gaming, is it surprising that I'm willing to spend money on my primary Hobby? This is my sports car for my "midlife" crisis.
The only upgrades along the way were the video card and added RAM.
Unless something old and important (e.g., motherboard) dies, this PC will make it well into 2015.
It cries trying to run anything with too much 3D graphics (Example: Team Fortress 2 fine, Left 4 Dead 2 not fine), although I did manage to play The Stanley Parable on it w/ no issue. I do regularly render video, but my segments are never over 2 min so it's more than serviceable. See you in a year, PC building thread.
Again, I wouldn't be upgrading my computer if my wife didn't need one but since she does, I feel it's best if I improve upon my formula. The increased costs mainly come from the fact that the next set up from my current card is on the low end of high end and I'm going Intel instead of AMD.
I'm thinking about trying out PS2. I won't be running it on Ultra, but it should run at 1080p without issue.