Now tempted to build my own case after realizing it's just a box with specific holes in it. I have a cnc machine that makes specifc holes in things. Anyone here got experience with making a case?
Now tempted to build my own case after realizing it's just a box with specific holes in it. I have a cnc machine that makes specifc holes in things. Anyone here got experience with making a case?
It's doable, but will take a lot of trial and error. Technically speaking, you can make a case out of just one panel with a bunch of properly positioned holes in it.
Making a working case will be trivially easy. Making a good case will be exceptionally difficult. Thre are just so many factors to consider. Air flow, cooling, vibrations reduction, noise reduction, cable routing, electronic shielding. Getting things close together enough to be small while still having room to work. Companies that have been working on this forever still make non-perfect cases.
What you could probably do is get an old PC that you know works. (I have an HTPC I'm trying to get rid of!) and keep installing it into each case you make as you revise your design.
In an A+ course back in highschool one of the things I had to do was run a (admittedly bare bones) computer on a piece of plywood. The idea was, you had to know how to put one together without the case giving you hints. Served as a pretty good weed out mechanism in the first week. If you could show post, you passed.
Hmm interesting idea to use an old "benchmark" setup. I like that.
My current case is a killer Antec, and yet it has flaws. I see 600 dollar cases on youtube that seem to have issues. So no one is perfect.
I really like the NZXT cases and been also peeping the Anidees AI Crystal, but that is a gluttony of windows which I'm sure is a black mark for some, but I dig the look here as it's very geometric and clean design wise.
My purpose to make my own is to go HAM with aluminum and get something like a Lian-Li mixed with an NZXT but on my own terms.
Also aluminum is petty cheap. I estimate raw maerials in the 50-70 dollar range using Online Metals, not counting that I have tons of aluminum stock to pull from already
Hmm interesting idea to use an old "benchmark" setup. I like that.
My current case is a killer Antec, and yet it has flaws. I see 600 dollar cases on youtube that seem to have issues. So no one is perfect.
I really like the NZXT cases and been also peeping the Anidees AI Crystal, but that is a gluttony of windows which I'm sure is a black mark for some, but I dig the look here as it's very geometric and clean design wise.
My purpose to make my own is to go HAM with aluminum and get something like a Lian-Li mixed with an NZXT but on my own terms.
Also aluminum is petty cheap. I estimate raw maerials in the 50-70 dollar range using Online Metals, not counting that I have tons of aluminum stock to pull from already
Yes, raw materials might be 50-70, but that's per attempt. You are going to make a lot of revisions on that case.
I might buy the 5T drives today even if I don't do the rest right away. They're on such a crazy sale.
I could easily hold out another full year if I upgrade my C:, get a USB3 card, etc... But, I'm really limited in live streaming capabilities on the current rig, and I really want to up that game.
Yes, raw materials might be 50-70, but that's per attempt. You are going to make a lot of revisions on that case.
That's a good point as well. I can probably make a mockup of the enclosure using something cheaper than .125 thick sheet 6061. Betting cardboard and foam core would work for sizing and testing cables.
Seeing some nice cases that have the mobo mount to a sub-frame which is removable from the rest of the case. Loving this idea and am gonna use that for sure.
Thinking about it, one thing I want to do is put the mobo on its back so the I/O is facing down into a large basement where normally the PSU would be. I assume nothing on the mobo cares about orientation, and I think by standing the GPU up on end, it will eliminate most problems with 'sag'. The bonus is I get 180° exposure for the pretty parts with the "bottom" of the gpu now visible and the ugly backside ports hidden entirely.
Yes, raw materials might be 50-70, but that's per attempt. You are going to make a lot of revisions on that case.
That's a good point as well. I can probably make a mockup of the enclosure using something cheaper than .125 thick sheet 6061. Betting cardboard and foam core would work for sizing and testing cables.
Seeing some nice cases that have the mobo mount to a sub-frame which is removable from the rest of the case. Loving this idea and am gonna use that for sure.
Thinking about it, one thing I want to do is put the mobo on its back so the I/O is facing down into a large basement where normally the PSU would be. I assume nothing on the mobo cares about orientation, and I think by standing the GPU up on end, it will eliminate most problems with 'sag'. The bonus is I get 180° exposure for the pretty parts with the "bottom" of the gpu now visible and the ugly backside ports hidden entirely.
I've installed many a GPU and have been concerned with "sag". Despite this, I have never actually seen even one case where a GPU socket actually broke or was damaged due to weight or anything.
Personally, I really like the cases that have some kind of riser card that allows you to rotate the GPU 90 degrees. The case I got for my HTPC does this as do others.
Got in and installed the Zotc GTX 1080. Because it wants TWO PCI 8 pin connectors I had to jury-rig probably the worst possible daisy chain of adapters to convert 4 MOLEX to PCI 8 by way of two MOLEX PCI 6 Y-adapters feeding a 6x2 to 8 Y-adapter.
I did this strictly for testing at midnight. I already have an EVGA G3 850W on the way thanks to Our Lord and Shipper: Amazonius Primus...
But yeah if you don't immediately balk at the idea of spending over $500 on graphics for a PC, there's no debating the 1080 is a beast. Even with my i5-2500k (now OCD to 4.6) it doesn't prevent me from getting nominally 60 frames 4k in BF1 with everything maxed out.
That is a 4-5 year old mid range CPU. And it still a beast machine all together.
Oh and I went with the 850w since I do plan to watercool and do plan to have lights, aux fans, and at least 2x storage spinny drives and 2-3 SSD slots. That still should leave enough headroom to SLi the 1080 and OC all the chips in a few years, you know, if I go crazy mad with power lust.
As for custom cases. I have a design in mind. It has reservoirs integrated into the center of the case and somewhat inspired by a nuclear power plant with the blue-glowing nuclear storage pools. SSDs will be in a bank between the pools and a cooling radiator compartment to one side and a MoBo compartment to the other side.
I'm going to start on the CAD for this soon, I've already scoured GrabCAD for any compatible parts and so it'll mostly be drag and drop and trace. Gotta love it.
Try and make it easy to route cables on the back of the motherboard plate, it's amazingly frustrating as to how many cases don't do this.
You could also just have a bunch of SSD holders on the back of the motherboard plate. I'll be interested to see what you design.
A lot of the problem I've noticed with cable routing is that the cables are really stiff and just barely long enough to reach their destination. If they were longer and more supple, it would be easier to route them, but then you have to deal with a bunch of extra cabling. This is also extremely difficult because many cables are actually bundles of smaller cables. ATX power is now 28 separate tiny cables.
Also, motherboards put connectors in locations just slightly different enough to make life a nightmare. For ideal routing you would need a case, PSU, motherboard, all designed in tandem.
One idea I had is that you would use extra connectors to hide all cables under the motherboard. For example, instead of having a 28 pin wire come all the way from the PSU to the mobo, you just have the PSU plug into a connector near itself with a tiny wire. Then there are 28 pre-existing wires that go to another connector that is positioned right next to where the motherboard connector is. THen you just have a very tiny and beautiful like 3-inch long cable connect the mobo to the connector on the case.
Try and make it easy to route cables on the back of the motherboard plate, it's amazingly frustrating as to how many cases don't do this.
You could also just have a bunch of SSD holders on the back of the motherboard plate. I'll be interested to see what you design.
A lot of the problem I've noticed with cable routing is that the cables are really stiff and just barely long enough to reach their destination. If they were longer and more supple, it would be easier to route them, but then you have to deal with a bunch of extra cabling. This is also extremely difficult because many cables are actually bundles of smaller cables. ATX power is now 28 separate tiny cables.
Also, motherboards put connectors in locations just slightly different enough to make life a nightmare. For ideal routing you would need a case, PSU, motherboard, all designed in tandem.
One idea I had is that you would use extra connectors to hide all cables under the motherboard. For example, instead of having a 28 pin wire come all the way from the PSU to the mobo, you just have the PSU plug into a connector near itself with a tiny wire. Then there are 28 pre-existing wires that go to another connector that is positioned right next to where the motherboard connector is. THen you just have a very tiny and beautiful like 3-inch long cable connect the mobo to the connector on the case.
I agree, which is why I buy cases with a 90 degree clockwise rotate motherboard plate (i.e. think about the CPU and video card exhausts blowing up rather than out the back.
The CPU and motherboard cables are much closer, so about 5 and 15cm away from the PSU which is hanging on the back (depth wise) of the case.
The problem that this creates is you need longer or messier setup for power to PCI-E cards.
In my own setup I have done it neatly for my sound card power (as the cable extenders are easy to find) but because the extenders for the type of connectors I have from my PSU to my graphics card are not as easily found I've done it in a janky manner.
I guess it is important to determine how your motherboard will be positioned and then decide the best position for the PSU to minimise the distance between motherboard connectors and video card(s).
Yeah, rotating the motherboard to point up is kinda cool. But here's another idea.
Put the power supply in the front. Right where your optical drive used to go.
Now, you might be thinking that's stupid. You'll have to have your power cable going out the front of the case. So annoying. Well, that's easily fixed. Just leave some room in front of the PSU for an extension cord. Have that extension cord exit the case at the rear. It's janky, but you just solved all your other cable routing problems by routing just one cable.
Also, the case I got for my HTPC does exactly this.
The power supply is in the front left. There is an extension cord built into the case so it will still plug the computer into the wall from the rear.
Granted, it was still kind of a pain to wire up this case, but mostly because it was so small. Also because of the barrier down the middle, the placement of the drives, the fans under the video card, etc. If you used the same CPU placement concept on a normal sized case, it would be great.
I don't think that's silly, my HTPC case does something similar but pushes the PSU alongside (imagine the motherboard sitting on a table and the a PSU next to it. The most efficient method I could wire everything was to layout the power cables to the front of the case and then start connecting them every where they needed to go (i.e. from where your power cables kind of start.
Yeah I definitely like the 90° motherboard concept. Apparently its a patented thing so this not everyone does it, but it seems to have some advantages.
I also like the idea of a PSU being moved elsewhere and/or having cables that are plugging into headers or what ever you call it and then those route to the mobo. A case manufacturer could pair their case with a specific line of PSU and then incoprorate the cables routing into the case and itself. someone must do something like that.
Also seems all you'd need is a few simple tools and one could get wires trimmed exactly to length. Now I'm thinking I'll need to do exactly this and make my own cable runs as part of a custom case, especially if the mobo and PSU arrangement is unorthodox.
It is the Fractal Design Node 202. Comes with our without PSU. It only takes special small PSUs, so I suggest you get it with and build a PC that doesn't need more than 450W.
Yeah I definitely like the 90° motherboard concept. Apparently its a patented thing so this not everyone does it, but it seems to have some advantages.
I also like the idea of a PSU being moved elsewhere and/or having cables that are plugging into headers or what ever you call it and then those route to the mobo. A case manufacturer could pair their case with a specific line of PSU and then incoprorate the cables routing into the case and itself. someone must do something like that.
Also seems all you'd need is a few simple tools and one could get wires trimmed exactly to length. Now I'm thinking I'll need to do exactly this and make my own cable runs as part of a custom case, especially if the mobo and PSU arrangement is unorthodox.
The setup is patented by Silverstone however this isn't going to affect you unless you start selling commercially right?
While my motherboard connector is close and I have been able to extend the power cable to my sound card (on the far left). I couldn't find extenders for the cables on my video card and since this PSU is not completely modular, these cables would otherwise be taking up room elsewhere.
Mounting the PSU on the back also stops it from sucking in dust from the bottom.
Since the bottom fans are so big they can be set to run slow and I can't here them.
Remember, you get 2 more on the front of the case by plugging into the header.
I'm aware of those.
I was just counting my ports and my devices, and I realized the solution is to just buy a USB hub. The only reason I can survive right now is because each of my monitors is a 4-port hub, and my keyboard is a 2-port hub. I also added a PCIX card to my PC to add four more USB 3 ports. The problem is that the ports on my monitor and keyboard provide flaky power (not 2-amp) and are USB 2 only. As more devices need more power, and also require USB 3, those become useless. I already have a special SD card reader that is USB 3 because the ones built into my monitors are too slow.
A hub like this one adds plenty of data ports, and one of the ports can provide enough power for my iPad since it has its own AC adapter.
Comments
I suggest studying the ATX specification.
http://www.formfactors.org/developer\specs\atx2_2.PDF
Making a working case will be trivially easy. Making a good case will be exceptionally difficult. Thre are just so many factors to consider. Air flow, cooling, vibrations reduction, noise reduction, cable routing, electronic shielding. Getting things close together enough to be small while still having room to work. Companies that have been working on this forever still make non-perfect cases.
What you could probably do is get an old PC that you know works. (I have an HTPC I'm trying to get rid of!) and keep installing it into each case you make as you revise your design.
My current case is a killer Antec, and yet it has flaws. I see 600 dollar cases on youtube that seem to have issues. So no one is perfect.
I really like the NZXT cases and been also peeping the Anidees AI Crystal, but that is a gluttony of windows which I'm sure is a black mark for some, but I dig the look here as it's very geometric and clean design wise.
My purpose to make my own is to go HAM with aluminum and get something like a Lian-Li mixed with an NZXT but on my own terms.
Also aluminum is petty cheap. I estimate raw maerials in the 50-70 dollar range using Online Metals, not counting that I have tons of aluminum stock to pull from already
I might buy the 5T drives today even if I don't do the rest right away. They're on such a crazy sale.
I could easily hold out another full year if I upgrade my C:, get a USB3 card, etc... But, I'm really limited in live streaming capabilities on the current rig, and I really want to up that game.
Seeing some nice cases that have the mobo mount to a sub-frame which is removable from the rest of the case. Loving this idea and am gonna use that for sure.
Thinking about it, one thing I want to do is put the mobo on its back so the I/O is facing down into a large basement where normally the PSU would be. I assume nothing on the mobo cares about orientation, and I think by standing the GPU up on end, it will eliminate most problems with 'sag'. The bonus is I get 180° exposure for the pretty parts with the "bottom" of the gpu now visible and the ugly backside ports hidden entirely.
They're all in-stock if you are willing to buy from a non-Newegg seller, but slightly more expensive.
Personally, I really like the cases that have some kind of riser card that allows you to rotate the GPU 90 degrees. The case I got for my HTPC does this as do others.
I did this strictly for testing at midnight. I already have an EVGA G3 850W on the way thanks to Our Lord and Shipper: Amazonius Primus...
But yeah if you don't immediately balk at the idea of spending over $500 on graphics for a PC, there's no debating the 1080 is a beast. Even with my i5-2500k (now OCD to 4.6) it doesn't prevent me from getting nominally 60 frames 4k in BF1 with everything maxed out.
That is a 4-5 year old mid range CPU. And it still a beast machine all together.
Oh and I went with the 850w since I do plan to watercool and do plan to have lights, aux fans, and at least 2x storage spinny drives and 2-3 SSD slots. That still should leave enough headroom to SLi the 1080 and OC all the chips in a few years, you know, if I go crazy mad with power lust.
As for custom cases. I have a design in mind. It has reservoirs integrated into the center of the case and somewhat inspired by a nuclear power plant with the blue-glowing nuclear storage pools. SSDs will be in a bank between the pools and a cooling radiator compartment to one side and a MoBo compartment to the other side.
I'm going to start on the CAD for this soon, I've already scoured GrabCAD for any compatible parts and so it'll mostly be drag and drop and trace. Gotta love it.
You could also just have a bunch of SSD holders on the back of the motherboard plate. I'll be interested to see what you design.
Also, motherboards put connectors in locations just slightly different enough to make life a nightmare. For ideal routing you would need a case, PSU, motherboard, all designed in tandem.
One idea I had is that you would use extra connectors to hide all cables under the motherboard. For example, instead of having a 28 pin wire come all the way from the PSU to the mobo, you just have the PSU plug into a connector near itself with a tiny wire. Then there are 28 pre-existing wires that go to another connector that is positioned right next to where the motherboard connector is. THen you just have a very tiny and beautiful like 3-inch long cable connect the mobo to the connector on the case.
The CPU and motherboard cables are much closer, so about 5 and 15cm away from the PSU which is hanging on the back (depth wise) of the case.
The problem that this creates is you need longer or messier setup for power to PCI-E cards.
In my own setup I have done it neatly for my sound card power (as the cable extenders are easy to find) but because the extenders for the type of connectors I have from my PSU to my graphics card are not as easily found I've done it in a janky manner.
I guess it is important to determine how your motherboard will be positioned and then decide the best position for the PSU to minimise the distance between motherboard connectors and video card(s).
Put the power supply in the front. Right where your optical drive used to go.
Now, you might be thinking that's stupid. You'll have to have your power cable going out the front of the case. So annoying. Well, that's easily fixed. Just leave some room in front of the PSU for an extension cord. Have that extension cord exit the case at the rear. It's janky, but you just solved all your other cable routing problems by routing just one cable.
Also, the case I got for my HTPC does exactly this.
The power supply is in the front left. There is an extension cord built into the case so it will still plug the computer into the wall from the rear.
Granted, it was still kind of a pain to wire up this case, but mostly because it was so small. Also because of the barrier down the middle, the placement of the drives, the fans under the video card, etc. If you used the same CPU placement concept on a normal sized case, it would be great.
I also like the idea of a PSU being moved elsewhere and/or having cables that are plugging into headers or what ever you call it and then those route to the mobo. A case manufacturer could pair their case with a specific line of PSU and then incoprorate the cables routing into the case and itself. someone must do something like that.
Also seems all you'd need is a few simple tools and one could get wires trimmed exactly to length. Now I'm thinking I'll need to do exactly this and make my own cable runs as part of a custom case, especially if the mobo and PSU arrangement is unorthodox.
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202
Here is the wish list for the entire HTPC I made.
https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=37946828
It is the most stable computer I have used in so many years. Rock solid.
Still trying to get rid of the old HTPC by the way.
Also, YouTube is the best for really seeing all the details of PC stuff before buying it.
While my motherboard connector is close and I have been able to extend the power cable to my sound card (on the far left). I couldn't find extenders for the cables on my video card and since this PSU is not completely modular, these cables would otherwise be taking up room elsewhere.
Mounting the PSU on the back also stops it from sucking in dust from the bottom.
Since the bottom fans are so big they can be set to run slow and I can't here them.
I'm leaning toward the ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming/AURA LGA 1151 Intel Z170
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132877
How come the motherboards in general are so stingy with the USB ports? Even this ridiculous $500+ motherboard has barely enough.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16813132637
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132506
I was just counting my ports and my devices, and I realized the solution is to just buy a USB hub. The only reason I can survive right now is because each of my monitors is a 4-port hub, and my keyboard is a 2-port hub. I also added a PCIX card to my PC to add four more USB 3 ports. The problem is that the ports on my monitor and keyboard provide flaky power (not 2-amp) and are USB 2 only. As more devices need more power, and also require USB 3, those become useless. I already have a special SD card reader that is USB 3 because the ones built into my monitors are too slow.
A hub like this one adds plenty of data ports, and one of the ports can provide enough power for my iPad since it has its own AC adapter.
http://amzn.to/2fXZejc
So if you get a USB hub, you can consider the more stable, less deluxe, board that has fewer USB ports on it.
http://www.tangentwave.co.uk/product/element-vs/