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Computer advice thread ("What's the best way to do this?")

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  • If you really want to save money, they just announced the 1050 today. It's hella cheap. Supposedly it's good enough to run all the modern stuff at moderate (not max) settings at 1080/60. I don't entirely believe that. Check out this video:



    It doesn't include the 1050, because that was just announced today. However, you'll notice the 1060 goes below 60fps quite a bit. Not super frequently, but frequently enough to be noticeable. The 1070 also goes below, but it's quite rare. The 1080 basically never does.

    I feel like right now the 1060 is in this bad spot. If you are trying to save money, might as well go for the 1050 and lower your settings a bit. If you want power, it's worth it to spend a bit more to get the 1070. If you are mad rich, 1080, duh. Who is the 1060 for? People who really want a 1070, but can't afford it? People who could get by with a 1050, but get suckered into spending more?
  • Well, I'm more concerned about price and video rendering and, right now, even the 1060 supposedly gets quadruple the performance of my 760. I know the 1070 is only about $150 more than the 1060, but that $400 price point will blow away a BIG chunk of my warchest.
  • Well, I'm more concerned about price and video rendering and, right now, even the 1060 supposedly gets quadruple the performance of my 760. I know the 1070 is only about $150 more than the 1060, but that $400 price point will blow away a BIG chunk of my warchest.

    If $400 is a big chunk of your "warchest" then you shouldn't be buying video cards.
  • Yeah, but it also shouldnt take four hours to render a simple 2 video track 1 hour video, not to mention all the time I have to spend pre-rendering effects and edits so I can preview them and tweak them. And frame rate drops while editing are annoying as fuck. If I can shorten the amount of time it takes to edit, shorten rendering times, AND make it so I have another machine to render with/be a backup in case my main rig goes down, its worth getting a new card.
  • Yeah, but it also shouldnt take four hours to render a simple 2 video track 1 hour video, not to mention all the time I have to spend pre-rendering effects and edits so I can preview them and tweak them. And frame rate drops while editing are annoying as fuck. If I can shorten the amount of time it takes to edit, shorten rendering times, AND make it so I have another machine to render with/be a backup in case my main rig goes down, its worth getting a new card.

    4 hours actually seems pretty fast for a 1 hour video. An Utena episode for us basically encodes overnight.
  • Damn that price for the 1050 is tempting. I mean granted I wouldn't put that in my current pc but if its good enough to play current games at moderate settings, I'm sure it would be more than enough to play the number of games I've gotten in humble bundles or for like $1 on steam over the years that I can't currently play.
  • To get significantly faster rendering times you really need to spend ridiculous money on super hardware.

    Or, there is one other way.

    If you have a ton of bandwidth, you can upload your unrendered videos and rent some cloud computers to do the processing. If you have enough bandwidth, and your video is large enough, this can actually save considerable time and money. Amazon Elastic Transcoder can render a 10 minute HD video for 30 cents. A one hour video will be about $1.80.It will be crazy fast, and won't occupy any local computers. You just have to worry about the upload and download time. Even if the upload and download time is slow, at least it won't be occupying your CPU so you can actually still use the computer while that happens.
  • So disabling that Legacy USB support only stopped the blue screens for a short while. They came back with a vengeance. Before replacing hardware, I have to rule out any software problems. I reset windows completely yesterday. That was a good decision. Everything is so nice now. It didn't take long either. The reset was very quick, and even including the time it took to reinstall my software, it was under two hours. So far, so good. What made it easy is that I have so many drives, including an SSD that is for Windows only. I unplugged all my other drives, reset Windows, then plugged them back in.
  • Has anyone seen a good article comparing the GTX970 vs the new 1000 line of Nvidia cards? Thinking about upgrading but I can't find a quality article that does more than gloss over the 970.
  • HMTKSteve said:

    Has anyone seen a good article comparing the GTX970 vs the new 1000 line of Nvidia cards? Thinking about upgrading but I can't find a quality article that does more than gloss over the 970.

    A 1060 has 10% more power overall then a 970. A 1070 has maybe 55% more. A 1080 is twice as good as a 970.

    A 970 is still powerful enough to run pretty much all of todays games at excellent settings and frame rates. It's a fine card. Personally, if I had one, I would hold off on upgrading until the 1170/1180 series comes. Possibly even until the 1270/1280 series. My 680 is rocking Civ VI just fine. Not replacing it until at least 1180 comes around.
  • Apreche said:

    HMTKSteve said:

    Has anyone seen a good article comparing the GTX970 vs the new 1000 line of Nvidia cards? Thinking about upgrading but I can't find a quality article that does more than gloss over the 970.

    A 1060 has 10% more power overall then a 970. A 1070 has maybe 55% more. A 1080 is twice as good as a 970.

    A 970 is still powerful enough to run pretty much all of todays games at excellent settings and frame rates. It's a fine card. Personally, if I had one, I would hold off on upgrading until the 1170/1180 series comes. Possibly even until the 1270/1280 series. My 680 is rocking Civ VI just fine. Not replacing it until at least 1180 comes around.
    As a general rule with Nvidia, is running two previous gen cards in SLI as good or better than a single current gen? (GTX970x2 <=> GTX1070)

    This is my monitor https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B2HH7G0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1477847225&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=144hz+gaming+monitor&dpPl=1&dpID=41lkIdf1gCL&ref=plSrch so I don't run any higher than 1080p@144hz. I wish I had gotten ahold of the g-sync upgrade kit but those sold out a looooong time ago. Is it worth upgrading to a g-sync monitor?
  • Unless you know you need SLI, it's a waste of money. I don't know if the g-sync thing is good or not. I don't have it, and I can enable vertical sync in games, and it works. I'm not sure what g-sync buys you. If buying a monitor I'd be more concerned about the pixel density, resolution, and color gamut/accuracy.
  • Okay, I'm at a loss on this one:

    Recently, my accounts in Google will be on "restricted mode" on YouTube. You'd think I'd just be able to switch it off, but it says:

    Restricted Mode is enabled by your network administrator.

    Now, this is doubly weird because I'm my own net admin, naturally. I did some digging, and apparently Windows 10 pulled some shenanigans and turned on it's family filters. I've never activated this, but apparently it happens when you install Windows 10 because...well...reasons.

    I watched this:


    But the thing is when I go to the fss.live.com site, there are no profiles. I can't add myself as a parent, because I'm already invited and in apparently, but no profile shows up like it does in his window. Also, it means I can not actually LEAVE the 'family'. Additionally, I can not find anywhere to set or change restrictions for content anywhere. This means I can not watch some videos, all comments are disabled and hidden, and my ability to make comments is turned off...EVEN ON VIDEOS I'VE MADE.

    More testing revealed another twist: If I use the same Google login but in Firefox, I get full access. I can even disable the restricted mode, but it is specific to the browsers.

    Also, on my mobile, I can view and comment on anything as well, again through the same Google account.

    So what it boils down to is that there is something connecting Chrome to Windows 10 and my Google account, all conspiring to limit media as if I was a kid, even though I was never notified of any settings and can not find anywhere to change them, even though I'm the account holder.

    If anyone has any thoughts or ideas, I'm opened to 'em.
  • Why don't you try switching accounts on your Windows 10? Open a new Microsoft account, then invite that new account as an adult and switch to that new Email address.

  • Now, this is doubly weird because I'm my own net admin, naturally. I did some digging, and apparently Windows 10 pulled some shenanigans and turned on it's family filters. I've never activated this, but apparently it happens when you install Windows 10 because...well...reasons.

    So what it boils down to is that there is something connecting Chrome to Windows 10 and my Google account, all conspiring to limit media as if I was a kid, even though I was never notified of any settings and can not find anywhere to change them, even though I'm the account holder.

    Did you do a clean install or did you have some family plan setup in the past.
    I literally didn't know there was a child mode.

    Not sure that software conspires.

    Also try a different Microsoft Account as Daikun said.

    Where or why did you sign up for that Microsoft account in the first place?
    If you signed up for a children's program, you probably have your answer.

    Alternatively you just contact Microsoft and they fix it in a few minutes.
  • edited November 2016
    EDIT: Forgot the building thread existed.
    Post edited by SuperPichu on
  • I have a comma separated list of a few thousand items. I want copy an item, run a search for it, click a link, copy the first five results and average them together, add that average to the document, then move on to the next item and repeat. For example. How do I go about doing this?
    The corpus I need to get data from has freely available a web application, but to download it to use with programs that can run CSVs costs hundreds of dollars.
  • Wait, so do you have local CSVs, or not? If local, excel or python scripts. If remote, you're probably hosed.

    Even if you write a clever wget script or something similar to scrape the data, your rapid requests will probably get you blocked, and you're likely violating the TOS of the site.
  • I have local copy of a CSV list that I want to run through a corpus and record the results of, but I only have remote access to the corpus data via the web app. There is no TOS, but it stops every 10 searches to ask for a donation, which is fine by me. I'd just rather not run thousands of searches by hand.
  • Write a for loop to iterate over the csv

    https://docs.python.org/2/library/csv.html

    Then use scrapy

    https://scrapy.org/
  • Banta said:

    I'm looking into getting a tablet. I'm going to use it primarily for media consumption on the go and at home, in particular e-books, audio-books, news, comics, and anime (if the screen is good enough). I liked the iPads well enough when I messed around with them, especially the mini 2 and 4, but if someone has a suggestion on a less expensive option that's just as good or better, I'm all ears.

    Amazon Fire next time they're on sale for like $35-$40 and root it/sideload Google Play?
    Most tablets are the very definition of "meh." They work fine, they get maybe a year of updates, and that's that. They're almost all 1200x800 and they're fine. Nothing more, nothing less. Up until now, I would tell you to look at a Warehouse Deals Nexus 7, but it looks like they're not going to bother updating it to Android 7. That's not a deal breaker, but it is at the end of its life cycle. The problem with iPad Minis is that they are 4:3 so most videos are severely letterboxed. The Amazon Fire tablet is the perfect kick around tablet, and it's got a micro SD card slot. It's extremely easy to sideload apps and even install the Play store on there. The resolution is, admittedly, not terrific, but we've come a long way on comic reading tech, so it's easy to zoom in when the text in a comic isn't clear. Anime looks good on it too. I think it would be ideal for your media consumption needs. It's also cheap unlike most of those meh tablets.
    http://i.imgur.com/MyqpqRl.jpg

    Bringing this back because today the Amazon Fire is on sale for $33.33. Seriously at that price if you don't have a tablet of some sort, just buy one.

  • Banta said:

    I'm looking into getting a tablet. I'm going to use it primarily for media consumption on the go and at home, in particular e-books, audio-books, news, comics, and anime (if the screen is good enough). I liked the iPads well enough when I messed around with them, especially the mini 2 and 4, but if someone has a suggestion on a less expensive option that's just as good or better, I'm all ears.

    Amazon Fire next time they're on sale for like $35-$40 and root it/sideload Google Play?
    Most tablets are the very definition of "meh." They work fine, they get maybe a year of updates, and that's that. They're almost all 1200x800 and they're fine. Nothing more, nothing less. Up until now, I would tell you to look at a Warehouse Deals Nexus 7, but it looks like they're not going to bother updating it to Android 7. That's not a deal breaker, but it is at the end of its life cycle. The problem with iPad Minis is that they are 4:3 so most videos are severely letterboxed. The Amazon Fire tablet is the perfect kick around tablet, and it's got a micro SD card slot. It's extremely easy to sideload apps and even install the Play store on there. The resolution is, admittedly, not terrific, but we've come a long way on comic reading tech, so it's easy to zoom in when the text in a comic isn't clear. Anime looks good on it too. I think it would be ideal for your media consumption needs. It's also cheap unlike most of those meh tablets.
    http://i.imgur.com/MyqpqRl.jpg

    Bringing this back because today the Amazon Fire is on sale for $33.33. Seriously at that price if you don't have a tablet of some sort, just buy one.
    Thanks for the reminder. Could be nice having a bigger hearthstone machine.
  • PROBLEM SOLVED:

    Okay, so I figured out why I was getting all kinds of bizarre restrictions when using Chrome at home. Turns out that I had done something I thought was smart, but had it backfire. I have one google account for school/work, and one for my home and daily doings. I created a separate login for each in Google on my computer, with my school login being the second.

    I went into the Google settings, disconnected my home account, and added in the school account. This allowed me to pull history, bookmarks, and more to my home computer and was super convenient. I THOUGHT that when I switched accounts in Google suite on the web, it did the same to the Chrome settings. This isn't the case.

    I switched my Chrome settings back to my main account, and all the bookmarks reverted, and I was able to view and make YouTube comments, all restrictions were gone, and the problem was fixed.

    This presents me with another issue: How can I have to separate google profiles in Google chrome? Do I need to change the settings each time?
  • I use an incognito window for my personal stuff at work, and am logged into my work account directly.

    At home, I reverse it.
  • Apreche said:
    Do this and then switch within Chrome as a last resort as each Google service can be swapped by clicking your profile and click switch account.
  • sK0pe said:

    Apreche said:
    Do this and then switch within Chrome as a last resort as each Google service can be swapped by clicking your profile and click switch account.
    Why a last resort? If you do this, it lets you have one Chrome window logged into one google account and a different Chrome window logged into another account. It's like having two separate copies of chrome running siiiiimultaneously.
  • Or Chrome canary. Or Firefox. Or Firefox developer edition. Or all 4!
  • Apreche said:

    sK0pe said:

    Apreche said:
    Do this and then switch within Chrome as a last resort as each Google service can be swapped by clicking your profile and click switch account.
    Why a last resort? If you do this, it lets you have one Chrome window logged into one google account and a different Chrome window logged into another account. It's like having two separate copies of chrome running siiiiimultaneously.
    Agreed! Two separate Chrome windows is Plan A, not a last resort. If you're in your "work" window, you're logged in with your work account, and if you're in you "home" window you're logged in with your personal account. No ambiguity. No work emails accidentally sent with personal account. No need to ever guess or double-check which account a given service is logged in with.
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