My OEM key doesn't work, and it de-authorized my copy of windows 7 into the bargain. And it's not like this is a dodgy key, this is a 100% genuine from-the-manufacturer-with-a-purchase key. Fuck's sake.
At least I can - in theory - get around this problem without being 150-300 bucks in the hole to get the equivalent of what I already owned. But a less than auspicious start, I must say.
How do we even know the checkbox actually does what it says it does? We need a third party thing that blocks it. AdBlock that runs on the OS instead of just in a browser.
Would that be super illegal? It sounds super illegal.
How do we even know the checkbox actually does what it says it does? We need a third party thing that blocks it. AdBlock that runs on the OS instead of just in a browser.
How do we even know the checkbox actually does what it says it does? We need a third party thing that blocks it. AdBlock that runs on the OS instead of just in a browser.
Would that be super illegal? It sounds super illegal.
How do we even know the checkbox actually does what it says it does? We need a third party thing that blocks it. AdBlock that runs on the OS instead of just in a browser.
Would that be super illegal? It sounds super illegal.
It's your computer. You can arrange the bits on that computer in any way you choose.
How do we even know the checkbox actually does what it says it does? We need a third party thing that blocks it. AdBlock that runs on the OS instead of just in a browser.
Would that be super illegal? It sounds super illegal.
It's your computer. You can arrange the bits on that computer in any way you choose.
In fact, every time software companies or governments have pushed too far into trying to control those bits, suddenly tools appear to save us.
My OEM key doesn't work, and it de-authorized my copy of windows 7 into the bargain. And it's not like this is a dodgy key, this is a 100% genuine from-the-manufacturer-with-a-purchase key. Fuck's sake.
At least I can - in theory - get around this problem without being 150-300 bucks in the hole to get the equivalent of what I already owned. But a less than auspicious start, I must say.
What exactly did you try to do? OEM keys don't always work with ISOs from Microsoft. You have to use the restore disks from the manufacturer. Then run an upgrade at least once (make sure it activates) to associate your machine with Windows 10 in their system. After that I believe you can do a clean install assuming your hardware doesn't change significantly.
Thurrot has a decent article about Windows 10 privacy concerns. Some websites went a little crazy. A lot of the concerns are over info Cortana uses if you opt into it.
How do we even know the checkbox actually does what it says it does? We need a third party thing that blocks it. AdBlock that runs on the OS instead of just in a browser.
Would that be super illegal? It sounds super illegal.
It's your computer. You can arrange the bits on that computer in any way you choose.
I meant on Microsoft's end. Having a check box that claims to stop sharing your data but doesn't seems like it would be breaking some kind of law.
How do we even know the checkbox actually does what it says it does? We need a third party thing that blocks it. AdBlock that runs on the OS instead of just in a browser.
Would that be super illegal? It sounds super illegal.
It's your computer. You can arrange the bits on that computer in any way you choose.
I meant on Microsoft's end. Having a check box that claims to stop sharing your data but doesn't seems like it would be breaking some kind of law.
What exactly did you try to do? OEM keys don't always work with ISOs from Microsoft. You have to use the restore disks from the manufacturer. Then run an upgrade at least once (make sure it activates) to associate your machine with Windows 10 in their system. After that I believe you can do a clean install assuming your hardware doesn't change significantly.
First, it refused it when it read it right out of my install, asked for another attempt to use a key. Attempt to use the same key, regardless of method, results in an authentication failed error code.
The worst part is - this only happened after it failed the first time. The first time, it all went fine, until the installer went tits-up 3/4s of the way through(at the installing drivers stage).
Yeah man. Coming to expense because their software fucked up, that's a bit of a pisser, but ah well, shit happens.
I'm assuming you don't have a disk and this is for a laptop which had a partition for factory settings?
If there is any way of going back to the Windows 7 install, if you imaged it or something it would also work. If you can do that there is an easy fix.
Where are you at the moment? With a de-authorised Windows 7 which was authorised at some point? If so you can just message or call Microsoft in Australia and they will give you a new key to reauthorise your use of Windows 7 so you can update to Windows 10.
I've had to do this may be 2 times with Windows 7 due to changing motherboards. It was done pretty quickly I didn't have any down time.
I'll give it a try. Unfortunately, don't have the disk anymore - it went to god knows where at some point in the last three episodes of moving. I do still have the key - I kept it down seperately, just in case - but not the disk.
I am back to my win7 install. It's just apparently not authorized.
Where are you at the moment? With a de-authorised Windows 7 which was authorised at some point? If so you can just message or call Microsoft in Australia and they will give you a new key to reauthorise your use of Windows 7 so you can update to Windows 10.
I'll have to do that tomorrow. Can't be arsed dealing with support at 9PM. Hopefully it'll be better than Razer support.
I'll have to do that tomorrow. Can't be arsed dealing with support at 9PM. Hopefully it'll be better than Razer support.
Definitely, just go through what happened. You can also save some time with verification and activations by making sure your Live account has 2 factor security authentication. Download the Microsoft Account Android application and all you have to do is tap "authorise" when it pops up in the notifications area of your phone.
I remember when doing a full restore on your PC with a clean OS used to be a weekend ordeal. Now it just takes an hour or two.
Faster Internet means faster downloading of the apps you need. Browsers doing everything means fewer apps you need to download in the first place. Faster drives, faster computers, means less time waiting for things to happen. More things stored in the cloud means less files to move around.
Upgraded primary desktop the official way after getting the notification. Then did the full reset. Smooth sailing.
I did this on my main machine yesterday. The initial update was flawless. Even doing a clean install with a C drive format is an option.
The only minor problem I had was getting the newest drivers for my Asus soundcard as they only had Windows 8.1 drivers which were hardcoded for 8.1 and would fail out if the version was incorrect. I just fixed the .dll that was doing the check and it worked fine.
The main thing I'm iffy about is the Microsoft Account login, I end up with first 5 characters of my email as my username which seems silly. The obvious solution to this is using a local account but I like the synchronization with other machines.
The ease of removing things is similar to Linux, just right click uninstall anything.
Steam was up and running way faster than I expected.
Also got Virtualbox working, just right click mounted the ISO on host for new VMs and imported my main VM from a backup.
Using a Microsoft account is great if you have multiple computers. For example, it'll sync wifi settings, wallpaper, onedrive files, Cortana's Notebook, etc. Since I use more Microsoft software and services than anything else (even Google), this is great for me.
Apparently, if you're using a wireless controller, you'll need to manually set it to use the 360 receiver driver, otherwise it just shows up as an unknown device.
Comments
At least I can - in theory - get around this problem without being 150-300 bucks in the hole to get the equivalent of what I already owned. But a less than auspicious start, I must say.
The others are used regularly by Google and Apple OS.
The worst part is - this only happened after it failed the first time. The first time, it all went fine, until the installer went tits-up 3/4s of the way through(at the installing drivers stage).
If there is any way of going back to the Windows 7 install, if you imaged it or something it would also work.
If you can do that there is an easy fix.
Where are you at the moment? With a de-authorised Windows 7 which was authorised at some point? If so you can just message or call Microsoft in Australia and they will give you a new key to reauthorise your use of Windows 7 so you can update to Windows 10.
I've had to do this may be 2 times with Windows 7 due to changing motherboards. It was done pretty quickly I didn't have any down time.
I am back to my win7 install. It's just apparently not authorized. I'll have to do that tomorrow. Can't be arsed dealing with support at 9PM. Hopefully it'll be better than Razer support.
You can also save some time with verification and activations by making sure your Live account has 2 factor security authentication.
Download the Microsoft Account Android application and all you have to do is tap "authorise" when it pops up in the notifications area of your phone.
Faster Internet means faster downloading of the apps you need.
Browsers doing everything means fewer apps you need to download in the first place.
Faster drives, faster computers, means less time waiting for things to happen.
More things stored in the cloud means less files to move around.
Pretty terrific.
Even doing a clean install with a C drive format is an option.
The only minor problem I had was getting the newest drivers for my Asus soundcard as they only had Windows 8.1 drivers which were hardcoded for 8.1 and would fail out if the version was incorrect. I just fixed the .dll that was doing the check and it worked fine.
The main thing I'm iffy about is the Microsoft Account login, I end up with first 5 characters of my email as my username which seems silly. The obvious solution to this is using a local account but I like the synchronization with other machines.
The ease of removing things is similar to Linux, just right click uninstall anything.
Steam was up and running way faster than I expected.
Also got Virtualbox working, just right click mounted the ISO on host for new VMs and imported my main VM from a backup.