Remove the first 6 sts from the rnd and place them on waste yarn or needle-holders (do not break off the yarn). Using a provisional method cast on 12 sts next to the last st worked then continue knitting to the end of the rnd, then knit the first 6 of the new sts. This mid-point of the new sts is where all rnds begin for the remainder of the hand. (54 sts)
It's mainly the provisional cast on in the middle of the row that makes no sense to me. This is for the thumb hole.
You basically have the 6 stitches you have on a waste yarn/cable needle to use later on when you make the thumb.
You are basically adding new stitches to your needle to continue with the rest of the glove. The thumb is going to be a separate appendage to the gloves. Trust me, it will work.
The waste yarn bit I get. And I know I'm adding new stitches, I'm just not sure how. I tried doing a provisional cast on in the middle of the row and that ended in horrible calamity and broken needles. Is something like this gonna work once I get back to that point?
That should work fine. If you want stretchy you can do Jeny's stretchy cast on as well. I recently did that for leg warmers that also go on your feet but have an open heel.
Nuuuu, it has to be provisional! They are going to want you to pick up the live stitches when you go back to work the thumb. (It would help if we had the rest of the pattern to verify this.)
Just make a 12-stitch crochet chain out of waste yarn and stick it in the round where the stitches you removed would have been. Then knit into the crochet chain for those 12 sts. Your new row starts in the middle of those 12 stitches.
I usually do it with a big hook so the loops are huge. That makes it a little bit easier to see where to pick up stitches, and it helps with the whole "I already have a piece of fabric attached to my needles, so my flexibility is not the best" problem. 2.5 mm is a B (US), so I'd go with a D or bigger and a lightweight scrap yarn.
Has anyone come across Twilight Sparkle yarn? My youngest brother was being a pain for holiday gifts and just requested something related to his favorite pony. However, I haven't found any yarn that screams TWILIGHT SPARKLE to me yet. I don't need the yarn ASAP, as they're getting presents shipped closer to January but any help would be appreciated.
Ro found some that are close when she was helping me pick out yarns for my secret santa project. All of the quatros have a verigated dark/light purple thing going on (I think the superwash looks the T-sparkiest). And I'm sure if you asked, Nuri'd make some for you to buy.
I can't dye any yarn til after New Years. All my stuff is up at Pete's. But if you want me to make you some sparkly yarn in purple, pink, and white, I could do it after New Years.
If you're looking for some inexpensive yarn, perhaps Lion Brand Homespun in Plum may help. I will warn you, it can be a bit of a bitch to knit with because of how it's spun. The fibers aren't fully twisted and they can get caught in the needles if you aren't paying full attention.
Yeah, the only bad thing is that it's sock yarn, and fingering size. While you can make hats out of it, it will be time consuming especially if it has a pattern.
There are a lot of Mane Six themed colors I've seen on Knit Picks. It's like they know or are bronies.
How well do arm-warmers take to being expanded via blocking? It's a big tight on me and I believe the intended recipient is a bit larger of arm than I am.
Wool will usually expand a bit when you soak it just because the yarn relaxes and adjusts to its new arrangement. However, if it feels like it's going to be too tight then it probably is. You could always try soaking one to see, even if it's not finished yet.
Biggest obstacle is going to be the cast on & bind off. If you used nice stretchy ones, they'll expand a bit more. Cables will make them less stretchy. Lace will make them more stretchy.
It fits me alright, and there's a bit of give to it. It was a tubluar cast on and there's no suggested bind off. It's not lace, but it's patterned. I think I'm just knitting too tightly. The hand part fits fine, it's the start of the sleeve that's the worry. I think I may have to go up a size, but I'd hate to frog back that much.
You can always switch needles at the part that you are concerned about. There are plenty of sweater patterns that do the waist shaping by having you switch needle size instead of increasing and decreasing stitches.
What are good projects for one ply yarn? I know normally something that that is worn where it won't suffer too much from wear and tear, but I really have no idea what to do.
I should expand my fashion to more knitted things instead of cotton t-shirts and jeans. >_>
As for projects, I just finished some leg warmers and need to find some mannequin legs to use as a model to take a picture. I really don't want to use my legs.
I plan on starting a hat for myself and a mobius cowl soon enough. I just need to learn how to do that Cat Borhdi mobius cast on. I've seen it several times and it seems crazy, but awesome. I just got some US 15s interchangeable needles in. Man, those things are thick.
As for spinning, I've completed the practice wool that Nuri gave me. I messed up on part of it, so I discarded it. Here is one that I am fairly happy with, that has seemed to come out fairly even.
There is another spinning night at a local yarn store tomorrow. I'm not sure if I will attend, however I do want to because the ladies are very knowledgeable and can answer any questions I may have.
For now, I'm reading through Respect the Spindle to try know more before I start spinning a batch of Corriedale wool I have. I plan using that as practice for spinning multiple ply yarn.
On a silly note, I find myself looking more closely to the yarn I currently have. I look at them to see the weight and how many plies it has. I'm thinking I want to make the batts Nuri dyed for me in a DK/worsted weight 2 ply, but we'll see.
It's got steady increases too I just don't think it'll be big enough, even if i switch up and block it.
If that's the case, you may be better off frogging and knitting a larger size. It's better to do the extra work to make it fit than to be dissatisfied with the FO.
What are good projects for one ply yarn? I know normally something that that is worn where it won't suffer too much from wear and tear, but I really have no idea what to do.
I like single-ply yarn for cowls since the yarn is usually soft. I'm currently making a hat out of a single ply of handspun. I'll let you know how that goes. Other than that, I don't use it very much for modern projects. I prefer the less-pilly plied yarns.
I need to figure out a good use for single-ply yarn, too. Especially because I'm becoming more and more of a fan of corespinning my fancy fiber. (I will show you this after you get comfortable with regular spinning.)
Perhaps I'll make a lacy cowl out of that Firefly yarn I have. I don't need really heavy thick ones, but a nice thinner one would be good for style and warmth. I tend to not need really thick hats or gloves to keep me warm.
I look forward to seeing what you have to show me.
BTW, is there a guideline for the thickness of plies to make in regards to however many plies you want to use a specific weight of yarn? Like, I want to make 2 or 3 play worsted weight yarn. How thick do each of those plies need to be? Or is it in regards to how tight it's spun? Or both? It's probably in the book and I haven't gotten there yet.
Just divide the thickness of the total yarn by the number of plies. That's how thick you make each ply.
The tightness thing depends on how you operate. I spin by feel. Some other people are technical spinners with their rulers and twist-per-inch and shit.
The more TPI, the more bouncy your yarn and the less drapey your yarn. (Fiber content also impacts this, but for now let's say wool.)
The basic rule is the more sproingy you want your plied yarn, the more twist the singles will need. This is because you're going to take twist out of the singles when you ply (by twisting the other direction). You have to find the amount of twist in the singles that gives you a balanced yarn after you ply. The way I do that is to sample. I spin a little bit and then quick-ply it by folding it back on itself and twisting the strands together.
Too much twist in the singles will mean they will still feel hard after you ply, so you'll want to play around with the level of twist.
I see. That makes sense. This feels likes more of a I need to basically practice all of this to better understand sort of thing.
Do you have any special tools you use to make multiple ply yarns? Did you create your own or buy certain products? I don't have the book with me, but it shows how you can put holes in a shoebox and add your spun yarn there on two separate spindles to wind the plies together where they act as a bobbin.
You can do that if you have 3 spindles. I used to wind my singles onto tubes (TP or paper towel) and stick them on my PVC niddy-noddy. I have seen people doing it by winding the single off the spindle into a center pull ball. You can either ply several of those balls together, or you can ply the beginning and the end of the same single together while sticking your thumb into the center of the ball. I pretty much ply on my wheel now and use my spindles for singles because I found all that stuff annoying.
As for tools, I think you can get plying guides or something, but I just use my hands.
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You are basically adding new stitches to your needle to continue with the rest of the glove. The thumb is going to be a separate appendage to the gloves. Trust me, it will work.
Just make a 12-stitch crochet chain out of waste yarn and stick it in the round where the stitches you removed would have been. Then knit into the crochet chain for those 12 sts. Your new row starts in the middle of those 12 stitches.
If you're looking for some inexpensive yarn, perhaps Lion Brand Homespun in Plum may help. I will warn you, it can be a bit of a bitch to knit with because of how it's spun. The fibers aren't fully twisted and they can get caught in the needles if you aren't paying full attention.
There are a lot of Mane Six themed colors I've seen on Knit Picks. It's like they know or are bronies.
Biggest obstacle is going to be the cast on & bind off. If you used nice stretchy ones, they'll expand a bit more. Cables will make them less stretchy. Lace will make them more stretchy.
I should expand my fashion to more knitted things instead of cotton t-shirts and jeans. >_>
As for projects, I just finished some leg warmers and need to find some mannequin legs to use as a model to take a picture. I really don't want to use my legs.
I plan on starting a hat for myself and a mobius cowl soon enough. I just need to learn how to do that Cat Borhdi mobius cast on. I've seen it several times and it seems crazy, but awesome. I just got some US 15s interchangeable needles in. Man, those things are thick.
As for spinning, I've completed the practice wool that Nuri gave me. I messed up on part of it, so I discarded it. Here is one that I am fairly happy with, that has seemed to come out fairly even.
There is another spinning night at a local yarn store tomorrow. I'm not sure if I will attend, however I do want to because the ladies are very knowledgeable and can answer any questions I may have.
For now, I'm reading through Respect the Spindle to try know more before I start spinning a batch of Corriedale wool I have. I plan using that as practice for spinning multiple ply yarn.
On a silly note, I find myself looking more closely to the yarn I currently have. I look at them to see the weight and how many plies it has. I'm thinking I want to make the batts Nuri dyed for me in a DK/worsted weight 2 ply, but we'll see.
I need to figure out a good use for single-ply yarn, too. Especially because I'm becoming more and more of a fan of corespinning my fancy fiber. (I will show you this after you get comfortable with regular spinning.)
I look forward to seeing what you have to show me.
BTW, is there a guideline for the thickness of plies to make in regards to however many plies you want to use a specific weight of yarn? Like, I want to make 2 or 3 play worsted weight yarn. How thick do each of those plies need to be? Or is it in regards to how tight it's spun? Or both? It's probably in the book and I haven't gotten there yet.
The tightness thing depends on how you operate. I spin by feel. Some other people are technical spinners with their rulers and twist-per-inch and shit.
The more TPI, the more bouncy your yarn and the less drapey your yarn. (Fiber content also impacts this, but for now let's say wool.)
The basic rule is the more sproingy you want your plied yarn, the more twist the singles will need. This is because you're going to take twist out of the singles when you ply (by twisting the other direction). You have to find the amount of twist in the singles that gives you a balanced yarn after you ply. The way I do that is to sample. I spin a little bit and then quick-ply it by folding it back on itself and twisting the strands together.
Too much twist in the singles will mean they will still feel hard after you ply, so you'll want to play around with the level of twist.
Do you have any special tools you use to make multiple ply yarns? Did you create your own or buy certain products? I don't have the book with me, but it shows how you can put holes in a shoebox and add your spun yarn there on two separate spindles to wind the plies together where they act as a bobbin.
As for tools, I think you can get plying guides or something, but I just use my hands.