So hear are a few questions I have so far: Would you recommend a top or bottom whorl spindle?
Amazon also has Learn to Spin Drop Spindle Kits with fiber included, but is a more expensive than the spindle I linked above. Would that kit be more preferable? I only ask because I plan on practicing on generic/basic fiber before spinning on the batts you are dying for me.
Would this type of roving wool be good for practice? It looks fairly inexpensive and I don't need much to practice on.
Thanks for any advice. (I can't believe I'm learning, yet another hobby. -___-)
I recommend a top whorl spindle that is somewhere around 2 oz. It is easier to learn on because it has a hook. On the bottom whorl, you generally have to wrap the yarn around the shaft and spin with the spindle at a slight angle. It is more finicky than a top whorl.
Also, I would not buy wool to practice with, as I will be sending both you and Lisa a little something extra along with your batts for you to do just that.
Respect the Spindle is a great book, and the vids on the Joy website are really helpful.
Also, yay for extra goodies! Hope the dying is going along fine. I can't wait to see how mine turns out as well as the other ones people ordered. Really awesome color combinations all around.
Churba - I prefer a top-whorl 1.5 oz spindle with most of the weight on the outer-rim of the whorl. In general. Grooves along the bottom of the shaft so it is easier to grip for spinning it are also nice. I tend to spin anything fine like lace or fingering weight on my wheel since it takes so long. People who spin lightweight yarn n a spindle would want lighter ones. I tend to like pretty wood - ceramic and stone whorls are nice, but I'm always afraid they will break if I drop them. And they do get dropped.
hmmm. Leave it with me, I'll get back to you with a rough design, I want to see what you think. I miss making things, and now that I have many of my tools back, I'd like to get into it again. Though admittedly, I'd give a kingdom for a good lathe right now, even just a little one, these are problems we can work around. Mostly because I can make a lathe that'll work, all I need is a motor. I'd make a bow-lathe, that's even easier, but I can't be arsed bowing it all the time.
Wait, bugger the motor, I've got an air compressor, I can just sort out an air turbine to drive it.
hmmm. Leave it with me, I'll get back to you with a rough design, I want to see what you think. I miss making things, and now that I have many of my tools back, I'd like to get into it again. Though admittedly, I'd give a kingdom for a good lathe right now, even just a little one, these are problems we can work around. Mostly because I can make a lathe that'll work, all I need is a motor. I'd make a bow-lathe, that's even easier, but I can't be arsed bowing it all the time.
Wait, bugger the motor, I've got an air compressor, I can just sort out an air turbine to drive it.
Just make sure it's balanced so it spins evenly around the center shaft. That is the most important, #1 critical thing.
Took me a moment to figure out which bit you were talking about, spindle or lathe. Either way, That's why I'd like to be making it on the lathe, primarily. Much easier to get and adjust on the fly the even weight distribution, as opposed to carving it by hand without one.
Pah. It's all just basic engineering and woodworking, really. I've just got a bit of a knack for working with my hands. To me, this sort of thing is part of the "Hello World" level of fabrication.
Stupid provisional cast-on. Took me forever to get the hang of it. And how does one go about picking up from it once you're ready to go back the other way?
Here is a pretty good video to see how the provisional cast-on comes out and leaves stitches behind. I am not a huge fan of picking up and knitting from a provision cast-on because you will have 1 less stitch on the 2nd side you knit. I prefer to knit 2 sides separately and then graft them together.
This here isn't a two side thing so much as a multi-part think; I don't fully grok the pattern yet and I'll probably be back with more questions later. This pattern has more than my usual number of things I don't understand yet.
Finished the first piece. The whole provisional business was so it could be grafted together into one tubular thingy. Maybe should have blocked it before grafting though. I'm going to be so happy when this is done because 1) it'll be awesome and 2) I can go back to doing things that aren't evil and lacy.
Oooh. Can't wait. Lacy is good, gives you practice and they always look cool.
I'm being lazy with knitting. I'm making Jeremy a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles hat and have been commissioned to make baby hats/bibs for my friend's sisters baby shower.
I went to a somewhat local yarn store and I found out they sell locally made spindles. They are a bit pricey, but they seem nice. They also have classes for spinning. I may just attend those to see how it all works out.
How pricey is pricey? A good spindle is worth a little extra. Those look like they have a good bit of the weight distributed to their outer rims, which is good.
Oh, that's a pretty reasonable price for good handmade spindles. I mean, the crap Louet beginner one is $16. And that's basically just a circle of wood stuck on a dowel.
I knit non-lace stuff at a decent clip and I think I could have done that in an evening, but there's no need for anything like that in Florida, and what I'm working on now has all the lace.
You and Ro make me feel like I knit so sloooooooow. -_-
Big needles (size 11) and big yarn (Aslan Trends Bariloche). It is just an 8" long tube with 2 pom poms. If I'm knitting something small or complicated, it takes me forever. Like socks. Fucking socks. I hate knitting them. But I love handknit socks.
Also, you just started. I didn't learn to knit anything besides a straight scarf for years after I learned to knit. (Like, I learned to knit at the beginning of college and learned to knit a tube after graduation.) I didn't learn to knit much of anything besides a tube for more years after that. I only learned how to read knitting patterns because I found out about Ravelry and decided to try knitting lace. And then I learned a lot of things. Like how wool fumes make you feel really, really good once they build up sufficiently. (Trust me on this one; once your stash reaches critical mass, you can play in that room all day and be nothing but happy. You should try it.)
Cute. Love the pom-poms. I notice when I wear my cowl, my neck starts to hurt. Maybe it's just me or my posture changes when I wear it.
@Dr.ZPhD Yeah, I have almost 2 years of knitting and I am very slow when it comes to very intricate patterns. Mindless knitting will be a breeze once you get the hang of it.
@Nuri I love knitting socks and it takes me forever as well, but in the end it totally makes up for it.
On top of the baby knitting stuff, I decided that I need another hat, but purple. I'm using Nuri's bulky African Violent superwash merino. I think I will make this hat. It seems perfect for the yarn type and yardage.
I also had some shiny sock yarn come in from KnitPicks today. I think I will start using a 2-socks-at-a-time with them.
They are going to be my Flutteryshy and Rainbow Dash socks.
I'm done with my commissioned project of making baby clothes for my friend's sister baby shower. I used 1 skein of Universal Yarn Classic Worsted Tapestry. I got it on sale and as an impulse buy. I mainly bought it because I liked the colors, but I was surprised on the patterns it created. I'm definitely going to have to use more of this yarn.
I made a roll up brim hat, a bib, a pair of booties, and a wash cloth. The yarn is super soft and can be easily washed normally.
I also received an email notification of some special dyed carded batts beings sent out to me. Now I will have to finally buy that drop spindle.
I totally love the colorways, Nuri. Great job. I think I will more than likely make one of these a worsted weight and if I feel confident, I'll make the other one fingering weight.
It's a good thing I don't feel like knitting, so instead I can start learning!
Yay! The white stuff is British Bluefaced Leicester, in case you were wondering. It's really good stuff for learning to spin on because it has a pretty long fiber length but is still soft.
You will probably want to start collecting a pew toilet paper or paper towel rolls to wind your singles onto when your spindle gets full!
Ok, just got back from my first spinning session at a somewhat local yarn store. The ladies there were so cool and understanding. I was very sheepish and nervous. I went in there having read a good portion of the basics from one of my books as well as watching various online videos.
One of the ladies showed me how to do it and I've gotten the hang of it for most part. It's really all about the drafting. I have more practice ahead, but I will meet up with them in two weeks and hopefully I'll have made good progress.
I think I want to get more practice roving wool to make sure I am comfortable before using my precious Nuri wool.
Nuri, Is it better to just make use to make several ply yarn or just on the one ply? I really want to go for a DK/Worsted, and if I chose to use several plies I would need to figure out how many plies I want as well as how thick they need to be. Any recommendations?
Also, I need to invest in getting a niddy noddy now. ._____.
My first one was a bit of a mess that it doesn't need posting. I got the basic mechanics down, but my gauge was all over the place because I didn't draft well. The picture above was my 2nd attempt and I think it came out quite nicely.
A bit of advice; don't be afraid to spin your fiber. It's good to practice, but once you get comfortable with the process, a lot of the variation comes in with experimenting with different fibers and preparations. Not everything turns out how you expect either; sometimes the fiber tells you how it wants to be spun and you just have to go with it!
Okay, so sometimes 1 ply is best, and sometimes multiple plies are best. It depends on the fiber you are spinning and what you're gonna use it for. Check out the yarns you have and take a look at how many plies they have an how they are spun.
Single ply yarns are good for things that you want to be very soft and that don't have to hold up to wear. They will pill if you use them for something that gets rubbed a lot. Cowls, hats, blankets, etc are good things for singles.
Multi-ply yarns have various uses and tightnesses. The more twist, the tighter the fibers are held, so the better it will hold up to wear. However, it also takes away softness the tighter your twist gets. You will also have to learn how to "overtwist" your singles because when you ply them together in the other direction, some of the twist will be taken out. However, I find plied yarns are easier as a beginner because you usually end up adding a lot of twist to your singles, and plying it lets you take some of that twist back out.
For planning purposes, get yourself one of these guys. Find a yarn that's the weight you want your finished yarn to be. Hold it up to find out the Wraps Per Inch of the finished yarn. Then multiply that number by how many plies you want to make, and that is your WPI number for the singles you should spin.
Comments
I'm doing some research online about how one would go about starting as well as online tutorials as well as books. This is what I've found so far:
Bottom whorl drop spindle.
Very informative website about spinning yarn.
Possible book to buy.
So hear are a few questions I have so far:
Would you recommend a top or bottom whorl spindle?
Amazon also has Learn to Spin Drop Spindle Kits with fiber included, but is a more expensive than the spindle I linked above. Would that kit be more preferable? I only ask because I plan on practicing on generic/basic fiber before spinning on the batts you are dying for me.
Would this type of roving wool be good for practice? It looks fairly inexpensive and I don't need much to practice on.
Thanks for any advice.
(I can't believe I'm learning, yet another hobby. -___-)
Also, I would not buy wool to practice with, as I will be sending both you and Lisa a little something extra along with your batts for you to do just that.
Respect the Spindle is a great book, and the vids on the Joy website are really helpful.
I seemed to have found the spindle that fits your suggestions.
Also, yay for extra goodies! Hope the dying is going along fine. I can't wait to see how mine turns out as well as the other ones people ordered. Really awesome color combinations all around.
Churba - I prefer a top-whorl 1.5 oz spindle with most of the weight on the outer-rim of the whorl. In general. Grooves along the bottom of the shaft so it is easier to grip for spinning it are also nice. I tend to spin anything fine like lace or fingering weight on my wheel since it takes so long. People who spin lightweight yarn n a spindle would want lighter ones. I tend to like pretty wood - ceramic and stone whorls are nice, but I'm always afraid they will break if I drop them. And they do get dropped.
I recently got a Chip Carved Rosette Golding Ring Spindle that I love.
There are also quite a few wooden rim-weighted spindles, such as these, available.
Wait, bugger the motor, I've got an air compressor, I can just sort out an air turbine to drive it.
Back the other way? What other way? Normal cast-on? I'm confuzzled.
I'm being lazy with knitting. I'm making Jeremy a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles hat and have been commissioned to make baby hats/bibs for my friend's sisters baby shower.
I went to a somewhat local yarn store and I found out they sell locally made spindles. They are a bit pricey, but they seem nice. They also have classes for spinning. I may just attend those to see how it all works out.
There is a really cool Space Needle looking one for $80.
Also, you just started. I didn't learn to knit anything besides a straight scarf for years after I learned to knit. (Like, I learned to knit at the beginning of college and learned to knit a tube after graduation.) I didn't learn to knit much of anything besides a tube for more years after that. I only learned how to read knitting patterns because I found out about Ravelry and decided to try knitting lace. And then I learned a lot of things. Like how wool fumes make you feel really, really good once they build up sufficiently. (Trust me on this one; once your stash reaches critical mass, you can play in that room all day and be nothing but happy. You should try it.)
@Dr.ZPhD
Yeah, I have almost 2 years of knitting and I am very slow when it comes to very intricate patterns. Mindless knitting will be a breeze once you get the hang of it.
@Nuri
I love knitting socks and it takes me forever as well, but in the end it totally makes up for it.
On top of the baby knitting stuff, I decided that I need another hat, but purple. I'm using Nuri's bulky African Violent superwash merino. I think I will make this hat. It seems perfect for the yarn type and yardage.
I also had some shiny sock yarn come in from KnitPicks today. I think I will start using a 2-socks-at-a-time with them.
They are going to be my Flutteryshy and Rainbow Dash socks.
I made a roll up brim hat, a bib, a pair of booties, and a wash cloth. The yarn is super soft and can be easily washed normally.
I also received an email notification of some special dyed carded batts beings sent out to me. Now I will have to finally buy that drop spindle.
I also bought a top whorl spindle for $35. The lady at the LYS said it was good for fingering to worsted weight yarn.
I also just got this book via Kindle download, Spinning in the Old Way: How (and Why) To Make Your Own Yarn With A High-Whorl Handspindle. If I need more, I'll have to buy the normal hardcopy version of Respect the Spindle.
I totally love the colorways, Nuri. Great job. I think I will more than likely make one of these a worsted weight and if I feel confident, I'll make the other one fingering weight.
It's a good thing I don't feel like knitting, so instead I can start learning!
You will probably want to start collecting a pew toilet paper or paper towel rolls to wind your singles onto when your spindle gets full!
One of the ladies showed me how to do it and I've gotten the hang of it for most part. It's really all about the drafting. I have more practice ahead, but I will meet up with them in two weeks and hopefully I'll have made good progress.
I think I want to get more practice roving wool to make sure I am comfortable before using my precious Nuri wool.
Nuri,
Is it better to just make use to make several ply yarn or just on the one ply? I really want to go for a DK/Worsted, and if I chose to use several plies I would need to figure out how many plies I want as well as how thick they need to be. Any recommendations?
Also, I need to invest in getting a niddy noddy now. ._____.
My first one was a bit of a mess that it doesn't need posting. I got the basic mechanics down, but my gauge was all over the place because I didn't draft well. The picture above was my 2nd attempt and I think it came out quite nicely.
A bit of advice; don't be afraid to spin your fiber. It's good to practice, but once you get comfortable with the process, a lot of the variation comes in with experimenting with different fibers and preparations. Not everything turns out how you expect either; sometimes the fiber tells you how it wants to be spun and you just have to go with it!
Okay, so sometimes 1 ply is best, and sometimes multiple plies are best. It depends on the fiber you are spinning and what you're gonna use it for. Check out the yarns you have and take a look at how many plies they have an how they are spun.
Single ply yarns are good for things that you want to be very soft and that don't have to hold up to wear. They will pill if you use them for something that gets rubbed a lot. Cowls, hats, blankets, etc are good things for singles.
Multi-ply yarns have various uses and tightnesses. The more twist, the tighter the fibers are held, so the better it will hold up to wear. However, it also takes away softness the tighter your twist gets. You will also have to learn how to "overtwist" your singles because when you ply them together in the other direction, some of the twist will be taken out. However, I find plied yarns are easier as a beginner because you usually end up adding a lot of twist to your singles, and plying it lets you take some of that twist back out.
For planning purposes, get yourself one of these guys. Find a yarn that's the weight you want your finished yarn to be. Hold it up to find out the Wraps Per Inch of the finished yarn. Then multiply that number by how many plies you want to make, and that is your WPI number for the singles you should spin.
I actually just purchased the WPI Tool & Knit Kard and the Niddy Noddy from Knit Picks. I also got some extra roving wool for more practice.